Also got it belted up, but found out afterwards that I used a grease that is controversial on the rails (superlube with syncolor). It’s recommended by LDO and Nero3D uses it in his video, but many folks on the Voron Discourse say it’s a no-go. I’d rather not risk it, so I’m uninstalling the rails, cleaning/degreasing them, and reapplying some white lithium grease.
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Im looking into building my own Voron myself, but I’m hesitating because there are just so many unknowns for what I want to do. Are you planning on installing multiple toolheads, enclosing it, or adding extras like runout sensors, load cell sensors, etc?
multiple toolheads
Is there A mod for this? There is a multicolor mod for multi color single extruder, but I’m not aware of multi toolhead
enclosing it
Vorons are designed to be enclosed with acrylic panels? You could choose not to install them if you’re going to print mostly PLA though. Or you could print the magnetic panel mount mod instead
runout sensor
A runout sensor is easy enough to add after the build is done. It’s on my “I’ll probably do this eventually” list personally, but I am prioritizing a working printer over it
load cells
?? First time hearing about this one
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multiple toolheads
Nope, although I think I read that there is such a mod for the Trident, but that’s because it has a fixed gantry. 2.4 is “flying” so I doubt that’s possible
enclosing it
I waffle back and forth there. I want to use ABS/ASA, but I have a ton of PLA to use up and I’ve read that doesn’t do so well in an enclosure. At least there are printable clips to help quickly remove the panels
runout sensors
There are a few, but the reviews on YouTube I’ve seen made them out to be kind of meh. I’m considering building the Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder once I’m up and running and tuned. That’s an MMU that has a dual filament sensor. You may be able to look at what they’re using at the hotend side and adapt it.
load cell sensors
For bed leveling? I’ve not seen that anywhere. There are a few similar mods, e.g. Klicky and Tap. The LDO kit I got has the Klicky parts, so I’ll go with that eventually.
Biggest thing to remember is take your time. I built my MK3s in a weekend, this definitely is not that. I view this as a much longer endeavor and investment that’s better than everything on the market right now. Better than Bambu and the like because it’s open source. Better than Prusa because the MK4 was really just a 5-year old printer with a new paint job and the XL is way out of my price range. Overall, this will be my printer, and once finished I’ll have customized every single thing to my liking.
I have an i3 MK3S+ with the official enclosure. In my experience it doesn’t really affect PLA unless you’re printing something with zero infill. I had one print that kept curling, and all I had to do was just open the doors.
You’re going to want to install klicky, or some other probe, out of the gate. It’s used for quad gantry leveling (mandatory IMO) as well as bed mesh (I’ve personal not done this yet). I printed the fixed mount, but it’s out of plane with the hot end mount so I’m working on printing the adjustable mount.
Good to know. I got the Klicky parts through PIF, so I’ll add it to the list!
multiple toolheads
Nope, although I think I read that there is such a mod for the Trident, but that’s because it has a fixed gantry. 2.4 is “flying” so I doubt that’s possible
https://github.com/viesturz/TapChanger-lite https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8kb695TLMM
A list of gotchas is a great idea. Here are a few that got me:
- sort your 16t and 20t pullies into two groups and separate them. It’s easy to inadvertently grab the wrong one if you’re not paying a ton of attention
- space your z rails higher than the manual says. The only reason for mounting them super low is style points, but it makes installing the corner covers really hard. I had to loosen all my rails and work them up because they were too low initially
- if you have a wiring harness and PCB anything, double check the pin to pin wiring against the PCB pinout. My hardness was not intended for the PCB XY endstop I printed, which caused some initial head scratching when the limit switches were behaving oddly
- don’t agonize too much over belt resonance
- there is a slim model for the z-end stop I had to dig up as the one in the main repo didn’t fit my build for some reason
- you’re probably going to print too many parts. This is ok
- you’re also probably going to print too few parts. This is also ok
Thanks for the tips!
For the z-rails, how high are we talking? Manual is 3mm and that’s what I stuck with initially, but I’ve got the rails off to clean and degrease/regrease then right now, so now’s as good a time as any
I’m currently at about 6mm. It does leave a gap, but it’s really not noticeable if you’re not at a super low angle and it makes installing the covers so much easier
Cool cool. I printed a shim to get the right height, I’ll just make it a bit taller. Thanks again
If you have the printed parts already you can try installing one now to see how it goes, especially if you have the gantry off right now.