(Title picture: Riding out of the Lathissi high plateau)

Time was running out, i was thinking back and forth on where to go, checking weather reports and ways to get there up to the point where i thought i’d just spend my last holidays this year at home and just do nothing.

Now i am glad i pulled the trigger on a flight to Crete to have a good week at this beautiful place. Been way too long since i’ve been to Greece.

I am on my last day here, tomorrow i’ll head to the airport. Organized some bubble wrap to wrap up my bike for the flight and now just hanging out in Chania, second biggest and supposedly nicest city on the island.

Some more pictures before i start with my lengthy sermon, haha.

(Riding up to the Lathissi plateau on some sweet gravel tracks.)

(Greek food. They gave me a small bottle of Raki for dessert, i guess it contained six shots but i was good after two.)

(Riding up to Spili. From Spili back down to the sea you can pass the Kotsifou gorge.)

(Camping by the sea.)

(Greek color way. Not really the cretan color way though, i mean there were places in this color way but i think that was only to give tourists some greek colorway vibes.)

(Riding out of Paleochora to head back to the northern coast.)

(Nice view into the Topolia gorge.)

Positive notes about cyle touring in Crete:

  • Climate. I had now about 27° C max temperatures everyday, perfect weather. Sun was still pretty strong, it surely would be too hot for me in full on summer though. Great plant life, still many flowers at this time of the year, fig cactus was ripe and the pomgrenade. Olive harvest was on too, the smell of the south.
  • Greek people. Super chill and super friendly
  • Greek drivers. Top notch, i have not had a single close pass. I was surprised, was expecting it to be more like Italy or Croatia. I might be proven wrong on the last 15 km tomorrow with tourists rushing to the airport together with me. Generally traffic was very, very low except for a few exceptions (last bit up to lathissi, and along northern coast)
  • Infrastructure. Tavernes everywhere, small supermarkets too. Lots of rooms available, would certainly be a good place to credit card it. On the flipside it is probably overly touristic in some places, but i expected that and was more surprised how fast you’d be out of the buzz and in rural places and villages with no tourism to speak of. I am here at the very end of the season, the day after tomorrow i think half the island will shut down, so i guess it was perfect timing to be here with less tourists around (and less people driving around in rental cars i suppose)
  • Animals. Cats are everywhere where human settlements are. Love it. Vultures in the mountains, i saw them every day, except for the flatter hills along the north coast. Saw a big flock too, 40 - 50 birds on the way to the lathissi plateau. Goats are absolutely everywhere on the mountains and i like it. They’re always scared when you pass and I sometimes worry that on a downhill a goat lying on the road might have a brain fart and jump into me, but they all had the escaping to safety dialed down. Dogs. I heard bad things about dogs in Greece, but every barky, scary dog i came across was either chained or trapped in a yard. All free roaming dogs were super chill, just lying around in front of the butchers or some garbage cans, not even caring about cats.
  • Iced coffee. The greek love iced coffee and so do i. Since i have last been here, which is decades ago, they completely switched it around though, it used to be ‘frappe’ everywhere, which is made from instant coffee, but now they’re all about the ‘freddo espresso’. While they still serve frappe, they were kinda looking weird at me when i ordered it, i think it’s way out of fashion. Took me a while to get the ‘freddo espresso’ memo.
  • Greek food is pretty damn good too. Cretan nut bars with honey were also good snacks.
  • Camping is great, although official campsites are not everywhere.

Can’t really think of negatives. I guess if you don’t like climbing this is not the place for you. Some roads had a lot of trash lying around. Some places are overly touristic, but kinda easy to avoid or leave fast. Traffic in the big cities is annoying, the greek all go by car or on mopeds. Still the drivers are great. I certainly will be back cycling in Greece soon, absolutely enjoyed it.

This was my route. Unluckily i’ve had a cold since i arrived here, so i didn’t get to ride what i thought i would. Guess i’ll be all good when i’m back in the office on thursday. I think it was down to not sleeping at all the night before i arrived, and only halfway the night before that, because leaving home didn’t go as easy as expected. Woke up at 4:00 to get to the airport, then realised i had forgotten to loosen my pedals beforehand. Tried too hard with my multitool to remove them and it broke. Now i couldn’t even remove the handlebar anymore. Tried for a brief bit to organize some tools at the airport with no luck and then just rescheduled the flight for the next day at 4:30 in the night from a neighbouring city. So i didn’t sleep all night and arrived in the capital Iraklio kinda dizzy.

I am quite happy with my new setup, even though the old one had it’s own advantages. It is now somewhat lighter, and the weight is more evenly distributed, so lifting it over barriers and pushing uphill felt better. Rides pleasantly but tbh i didn’t mind the riding part with the old rear heavier setup either. Pretty sure i will do my next tour with this new setup again though.

  • @[email protected]
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    7 months ago

    I was wondering where you had decided to go. My bet would have been Corsica, but this sounds even better!

    Pictures look awesome, really nice to be there in the twilight of the tourist seasons with all the pros and very few of the cons. Funny how your tent really fits in well with the landscape. Is it legal to camp over there, or did you have to be a bit secretive about it? The spot on the beach looks absolutely amazing.

    On a trip like this, I usually take my bike case with me in the plane, and leave it in a hotel for a few extra bucks and pick it up when I’m leaving. The added value is that I can take some extra tools to assemble and disassemble my bike, the mini tool Always manages to piss me off somehow.

    Glad you weren’t ambushed by a goat. On a serious note, I would advise everyone who bikepacks in countries where it exists to get the rabies vaccine. It is one of the only diseases with an absolute 100% mortality rate once it is incubated. I don’t want to scare anyone, it just feels like a good return on investment.

    What did you change in the set up of your bike? What kind of brakes do you have?

    Thanks for sharing, great stuff as always!

    • @AchtungDrempelsOPM
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      7 months ago

      That camping spot is actually marked on osm, it certainly is accepted to camp there. There are also taverns to the left and right of that beach, they open early too so you could get coffee and visit the toilet. There was a couple sleeping there too in their tent a bit further down the beach. It’s located about 15 km east of Chora Sfakion on the southern coast. That night I first wanted to set up camp at this spot:

      But it just had too many sharp rocks for my liking. The one i ended up with (at the beach) didn’t look all that appealing on osm because it seemed to be right next to the road, but the road turned out to be that dirt track along the beach that you can (barely) see in the picture.

      From my experience the greek are quite cool with sleeping outside, on beaches, even if you camp out longer than just over night, my knowledge is a bit dated though. However, i met an older greek tourer from Santorini who was on his way to ‘Cocos beach’ (?), which must be somewhere near the former hippie village Matala, to camp out for a few days. I think there may be still a few hippies living in caves there. I wanted to pass by there, but due to feeling kinda weak due to my cold i skipped that part.

      I got a rabies vaccine (might need a refresher), but i read that there are no known cases of rabies on this island.

      Setup change is really about the fork bags instead of my trusty shopping basket and i use smaller rear panniers now.

      But on the bike i changed, or better replaced a whole lot of stuff after the summer tour, had to replace the whole drivetrain, so chainrings, chain, cassette, i replaced my wheels, used the front one for my city bike with the hub dynamo, the rear ones sidewalls were basically braked through, so swapped that too. Changed the rear tire as well due to a crack in the sidewall. I have v brakes. Oh yeah, gave them new brake pads as well.