I find it interesting how much time the boulderers seem to take looking at the wall before their first attempt. Are they not allowed to have seen it before they head out? And if so, how does this get enforced? Is everyone just locked in a room without communication until their turn to start?
Exactly that. They have to go into isolation a few hours before the start of the session. Isolation means no internet/bluetooth/outside contact in an area with warm up equipment. They then have 5 minutes to “read” the boulder and climb it.
In the finals it is different and they get a 2 minute shared observation per boulder before they start. But they are still in iso while the others are climbing.
Coaches get to stay with athletes in iso until the competition starts, but can’t go out and back in again. They are also not allowed to shout any advice while the athletes are climbing.
It’s interesting to see how different sports handle coaches. Some can’t help at all. Others are basically micromanaging their team. It does come across as somewhat arbitrary when you’re watching them all together like this, even though each sport is basically making a logical decision about what its regulatory body thinks is best for their specific sport.
I find it interesting how much time the boulderers seem to take looking at the wall before their first attempt. Are they not allowed to have seen it before they head out? And if so, how does this get enforced? Is everyone just locked in a room without communication until their turn to start?
Exactly that. They have to go into isolation a few hours before the start of the session. Isolation means no internet/bluetooth/outside contact in an area with warm up equipment. They then have 5 minutes to “read” the boulder and climb it.
In the finals it is different and they get a 2 minute shared observation per boulder before they start. But they are still in iso while the others are climbing.
Coaches get to stay with athletes in iso until the competition starts, but can’t go out and back in again. They are also not allowed to shout any advice while the athletes are climbing.
It’s interesting to see how different sports handle coaches. Some can’t help at all. Others are basically micromanaging their team. It does come across as somewhat arbitrary when you’re watching them all together like this, even though each sport is basically making a logical decision about what its regulatory body thinks is best for their specific sport.
Oh nice, thanks!