Through secondhand clothes, my friends and I consumed western culture.

Yet, while proximity to western bodies felt like a blessing to my generation, it’s not universally desirable. Certain types of pre-worn clothing, like lingerie, for example, are rarely found in charity shops. Such items are perceived as “dangerous” for reselling as they are associated with contamination and lack of hygiene due to their close contact with intimate areas of the body.

Recycling is not yet happening on an industrial scale.

Only 1% of used clothes are recycled, and Europe’s only recycling mill, designed to convert discarded clothes into new textiles through eco-friendly chemical recycling, closed in February 2024 – declaring bankruptcy just two years after opening.

Reuse – such as resale, rental, repair and remaking – could help prevent waste, reduce the use of new resources, lower carbon emission and increase consumer awareness to tackle fashion waste. But despite the rise of various reuse models, it still remains a niche practice because it relies on people wearing clothes that others have previously worn.