Any disruption of the interference fit between the contact or cutting faces can ruin scissors - it’s a lot like grinding a straight razor, but where you have incredibly strict angle requirements across a compound surface. You’re absolutely right though that the #1 mistake people make is to mess up the hollows by flat sharpening them like knives.
Sharpen the angled side at the proper angle, and remove the burr by flattening the smooth side of the blade on a decent diamond stone.
I have my great grandfathers barber’s shears, and that’s how they’ve been sharpened for going on 100 years now. You need a stone wide enough for the whole blade, so that its uniformly flat, but other than that it’s pretty logical how they need to be sharpened.
I think it’s down to most people not having used modern high end shears, which usually have convex bevels (and some pain in the ass exotic steels). If you can sharpen that without destroying the tension/edge finish using a hardware store stone (like someone in this thread was claiming), I’ll be properly impressed.
It’s a shame more fabric enthusiastics don’t do this, we’d have an army of skilled blade sharpeners and weapon/fabric enthusiastics could join forces and reign supreme
I think everyone should learn how to sharpen a kitchen knife at least.
Dull knives are dangerous, and it really only takes an afternoon to get decent at sharpening a knife.
Unfortunately there’s a lot of lore about knife sharpening, like how you need really fine grit stones, or a whetstone being the best, when in reality you can get a shaving sharp edge from a 20 dollar diamond stone from a hardware store. Sure, a 4000 grit stone will get you a mirror finish and a more refined edge that will last slightly longer, but even an 80 grit stone when used properly, will get you a good edge that will last for months without any other sharpening.
Any disruption of the interference fit between the contact or cutting faces can ruin scissors - it’s a lot like grinding a straight razor, but where you have incredibly strict angle requirements across a compound surface. You’re absolutely right though that the #1 mistake people make is to mess up the hollows by flat sharpening them like knives.
It’s a single bevel.
Sharpen the angled side at the proper angle, and remove the burr by flattening the smooth side of the blade on a decent diamond stone.
I have my great grandfathers barber’s shears, and that’s how they’ve been sharpened for going on 100 years now. You need a stone wide enough for the whole blade, so that its uniformly flat, but other than that it’s pretty logical how they need to be sharpened.
Seriously, what’s with these people thinking fabric scissors are magic? If anything, they’re significantly easier to sharpen than a knife.
I think it’s down to most people not having used modern high end shears, which usually have convex bevels (and some pain in the ass exotic steels). If you can sharpen that without destroying the tension/edge finish using a hardware store stone (like someone in this thread was claiming), I’ll be properly impressed.
It’s a shame more fabric enthusiastics don’t do this, we’d have an army of skilled blade sharpeners and weapon/fabric enthusiastics could join forces and reign supreme
I think everyone should learn how to sharpen a kitchen knife at least.
Dull knives are dangerous, and it really only takes an afternoon to get decent at sharpening a knife.
Unfortunately there’s a lot of lore about knife sharpening, like how you need really fine grit stones, or a whetstone being the best, when in reality you can get a shaving sharp edge from a 20 dollar diamond stone from a hardware store. Sure, a 4000 grit stone will get you a mirror finish and a more refined edge that will last slightly longer, but even an 80 grit stone when used properly, will get you a good edge that will last for months without any other sharpening.