Some bicycles get rode into or through lots of deep water, other bicycles often get left out in the rain and foggy weather.
Any which way, bicycles can most definitely rust from the inside out, so are there any recommended ways to protect against the elements?
Bleh, not much point anymore, there’s not a lot that can be done anymore on my old bike. I was more or less asking for future knowledge and to bring the discussion to the bicycling community.
The additional problem with my old bike is the type of metal it’s made from. It’s 4130 chromoly aircraft steel, and although the steel is rather light and strong compared to typical bicycle steels, 4130 also has one serious drawback, which is that the heat from welding causes the metal to lose temper around the areas welded.
I already have a good idea what all would need to be done to try getting the frame more or less fixed, but it would still end up being a compromise of sorts. Not like old Silver’s frame is ever gonna be anywhere near as valuable as other SuperGoose frames in good condition though.
I’d basically have to have a handful of custom reinforcement brackets to have welded in key stress spots, plus deal with the bottom of the seatpost tube similarly.
Also, it would be neat if I could get a template for the bottom ‘spider’ bracket from the 1979 model that they dropped on the 1981 model.
I’ve already talked with a very skilled welding shop that I already fully trust with my frame, they want like $70 an hour, not counting materials and parts.
Plus I gotta figure out a way to remove my left rear peg, it’s totally stuck on there because the threads on the back axle were partly mangled when I put the pegs on, and now I can’t even remove the back rim because of the damn stuck peg, not even with a pipe wrench… 😞
Triflow works okay. When I worked in a machine shop, we used an acetylene torch and a rosebud tip to heat old bolts in engine blocks to a light cherry red. Then you dab on some paraffin wax. The wax will liquefy and quench the heat while filling the void from dissimilar heating. You will harden the fastener with the quenching and you need a place to target the fastener directly. However, this technique works so well that it is common to go from a rusty blob that looks like a parasitic ferric lifeform has merged with the host to something that can be unscrewed by hand after it has cooled. You just risk damaging finishes with this one.
Using a combination of triflow, hot/cold cycling, and janky leverage, are the ways it is done in a bike shop. GL