Complete vehicle harness, except engine. Rodent damage on a new 760i. Bags are full of the wiring/connectors that get pulled through firewall/trunk/rear openings to prevent damage.
Complete vehicle harness, except engine. Rodent damage on a new 760i. Bags are full of the wiring/connectors that get pulled through firewall/trunk/rear openings to prevent damage.
“5) It is typically very easy to replace any damaged wiring with generic wiring and connectors which are available for pennies at any auto parts or hardware store.”
Not so much anymore. A large percentage of critical wiring is now “low resistance” circuits. They are very sensitive to resistance. That means we are only allowed to make a single splice per wire along its full length. So if a section of wire is missing, the entire wire must be replaced from end to end with new terminals. Those can sometimes be the full length of the car.
I’m not an electrical engineer, but there’s manufacturer recommendations and there’s “good enough for the job”. If I bought that car out of warranty, and had to splice a wire, would it actually matter? And if it did, couldn’t I just… use a thicker conductor and some high quality connectors?
Upping the size of the conductor adds resistance to the circuit. The wiring in those harnesses are like 20-26 gauge. When you’re sending a signal (rather than just supplying power) that extra resistance causes all kinds of problems.
If you’re making a repair with low resistance wiring, it’s pretty much standard practice to solder in a repair wire of the same gauge and conductor type. A butt splice will also add resistance to the circuit.
You can do a lot of things with power feeder wiring that you can’t with low resistance signal wiring.
Huh. TIL.
Copper isn’t that expensive. $6/lb = $480. Equivalent weight in Romex would be ~$700. $900 for shielded Cat 6.