Finally completed my Explorer Pi V2 build. My primary goals for V2 was to adjust economics to fit my hand, improve build quality while reducing total part count, and to create a better thumb cluster. A lot of these changes trade modularity to achieve these goals, which is not a big loss as I get closer to endgame design.
Thumb cluster was my biggest complaint with the original; being modular made the whole assembly too weak and key spacing to large; not to mention inflating the part count. So I made a one piece design with additional mounting support. Also went with a six key, two row design. Finally I make the switch plate compatible with either MX or Choc switches (and swappable). Used my Enigma Dual Hot Swap pcbs for the thumb cluster keys. This thumb cluster is probably going to see some future iterations. I’ve made things fully modular in case I want to swap it out for a new one later.
I’ve made quite a few changes to the original to arrive at this point including:
- adjusted stagger of each column
- adjusted splay and height on the pinky columns
- used flexible pcbs (from the BigSkree)
- made the switch plate one piece per side (orig was individual columns)
- added side walls to the switch plate
- added additional support to the thumb cluster so it has less wobble
- one piece, 6 key thumb cluster
- support for both choc and mx switches on thumb cluster
- added ARRI locating holes to the 1/4" mounting point
- reduced total count of required inserts and screws
- reduced diameter of the 1/4" insert hole to better fit the inserts I was able to source
- adjusted 1/4" mount location for better center of balance.
While I originally was planning on taking more build photos and putting together a guide for this iteration I had a bit of a lightbulb moment while assembling this for how to improve the entire build dramatically so that going to be a goal for V3 now.
As a slight aside I came up with a pretty good mounting solution for this board. Each half has a stand using these rubber coated magnets, a low profile hawklock and super low small ballhead mounts. With my v2.5 base plate I modified the 1/4" center of balance so that these stands balance well enough on a non magnetic surface to type on. They are also rubber coated so surface damage as well as sliding are minimized. Then for my main setup to make things even more secure I simply place a piece of sheet steel under my desk pad. I’m liking this enough that I’m starting to wonder about the embedding some steel in the desk permanently.
Keycaps:
- DES alphas R2-R4
- 4x DES Thumbs R5x
- 2x DES R5 1.25u
- 2x cDES R5x
- 2x CS 1.25u
- 2x Gravity 1.25u
Switches:
- MX Boba U4
- Choc Sunsets
The Boba U4’s are the second switch I’ve tried on here and still not satisfied. Anyone have some good silent tactile switch suggestions?
Links:
I feel like you didn’t actually read what I wrote… If you were going to mix some cake batter where would you position the bowl/spoon. Naturally you are going to work with it more less centered on your body. Sewing, widdling, tool usage ect… It’s not about your shoulders is Ulnar deviation. Why do you think we consider boards like the miryoku or alice style boards as ergomech if they are not shoulder width spaced?
The point is, you don’t have to have them in front of your face like the rest you mentioned… Unless you are looking at the keys?
Plus, soldering, knife and fork, cake batter, if you did them all day, yes, you would get shorter muscles in the front of your chest and longer in the back of your neck and shoulders leading to poor posture. Hunched.
If you don’t need the space, I wouldn’t think you’d split when you could make 1 board, ala logitech ergo with a bit of tent.
Not sure what your picture of anatomy looks like if you think these are in my face… plus what would I be looking at, they keys are blank. Again the real advantage to a spilt is allow for free translation along the X axis and rotation on Z.
If you like having your boards spaced shoulder width great but you are really off about your view of the ergonomics. Take a look at how people use spilts and other one piece ergo boards. Also we work with our hands if front of our chests because of the economics not in spite of it. Working this way doesn’t lead to hunched posture…