Most people take a simple view of cash: they have a checking account for spending and a savings account for savings, and if they get fancy, they’ll have a CD for longer term savings goals. Power users will change to an online bank with better returns, and that’s about as far as it goes. That certainly works, but we can do a lot better with few downsides and a lot of extra benefits.

I’d like to start with explaining how traditional banks work and then look at alternatives. Basically, banks make most of their money by lending it, either for mortgages, auto loans, credit cards, etc. Federal regulations require they keep a certain percentage of their assets in “cash,” so they pay interest on checking and savings accounts to attract deposits. The larger the bank, the less they need to work for deposits since they have brand recognition. That’s why you’ll see higher interest rates at online only banks (e.g. SoFi, Ally, etc) than at huge brick and mortar banks (Wells Fargo, Chase, etc), they need to pay more to attract customers since they don’t have branches to do so. However, they’ll never pay more than a certain percentage of loan rates, otherwise they’ll lose money. Switching banks is time consuming, so customers rarely do that, which means banks only need to have periodic promos to encourage people to move their money to them.

Let’s compare that to a brokerage. Brokerages offer a variety of features, and most of their money is made on commissions from trades (or for free brokerages, bid/ask spreads) or from fees on funds they run. The friction in changing funds is pretty low, so funds often compete for low fees to attract investors, and the more investors they have, the lower their fees can be (managing $1B isn’t that different from managing $10B in terms of costs). They sometimes offer loans (e.g. margin loans), but that isn’t the core of their business, and those loans are backed by the debtor’s own assets, not the brokerage’s funds, so risk is much lower and not related to deposits by other customers.

So now that the high level differences between banks and brokerages are out of the way, let’s look at products brokerages have and how they line up with traditional banking products:

  • Money Market Funds - basically savings/checking accounts, but run by a fund manager instead of a bank; you can select from any number of money market funds, from funds that look to reduce taxes (e.g. buy mostly Treasuries) to funds that seek to maximize returns; interest is generally accrued daily and paid monthly; banks sometimes offer money market accounts, which are similar, but they operate a bit differently, and you only get the one they offer
  • brokered CDs - similar to regular bank CDs, but you’re buying them on the open market instead of from your bank; these CDs cannot be broken early like bank CDs, but they can be sold on the market like any stock for the current fair market value; this means they can reduce in value if you sell before maturity, but since you’re able to shop for the best price, you usually get a much better return if you hold to maturity
  • t-bills/notes/bonds - similar to brokered CDs, but issued by the federal government in increments of $1000; these are not subject to state and local taxes, and some brokerages allow them to be auto-rolled (when they mature, the same denomination will be purchased); there’s no early redemption, but they can be sold at any time for fair market value
  • municipal bonds - buy bonds directly from cities and whatnot; these are usually not subject to state, local, or federal taxes, but also have higher risk due to cities generally being less credible debtors than state or federal governments; I don’t bother with these, but maybe they’re worthwhile in states with higher taxes (mine is <5%, so not that high)

Generally speaking, the brokerage options over a greater return than traditional banking products because it’s trivial for investors to switch products without changing brokerages.

Here’s what I do:

  • checking/savings - invested at Fidelity in SPAXX, which currently yields ~5%, and I think it’s ~30% state tax exempt; if my state had higher taxes, I’d probably opt for a Treasury-only fund; switching takes like 30s to enter a trade; Ally Bank savings is 4.25% and money market fund is 4.4%, and I use my brokerage as checking, so I’m getting 5% on all money held there (Ally checking is 0.10%)
  • CD - I had a no penalty CD @ 4.75% @ Ally, which was a fantastic rate when I got it; Fidelity offers non-callable CDs @ >5% for periods from 3 months to 5 years, and Ally only offers those rates for 6-18 months (and they’re still lower than Fidelity); I don’t buy any because I buy…
  • Treasuries - no equivalent at banks, but they’re close enough to CDs; current rates are 5.2-5.4% depending on term (4 weeks to 52 weeks), and even notes (2-10 year terms) are 4.5-5%; my efund is invested in a t-bill ladder; I bought 13-week (3-month) t-bills every other week and set them to autofill, and my gains live in my money market fund (SPAXX @ 5%); this is half of my efund, with the other half in ibonds; if I need money, I either cancel the autoroll, or I sell the t-bill on the market

Here’s my list of pros:

  • significantly higher interest in checking (5% vs ~0.10%); no difference between “checking” and “savings,” they’re all just brokerage accounts
  • more options for investment - I now feel comfortable keeping my efund, checking, and regular savings in the same place without having to sacrifice returns
  • debit card rocks - Fidelity and Schwab both have worldwide ATM fee reimbursement and low/no foreign transaction fees (Fidelity is 1%, Schwab is 0%)
  • can have cash savings and investments in the same place - Fidelity also has my HSA, and I may eventually move my IRA as well
  • paycheck comes a day earlier - lots of banks offer this, but often only on their checking accounts

And some cons:

  • SIPC instead of FDIC insurance - coverage is about the same, but FDIC is automatic, whereas SIPC requires me to make a claim; I doubt I’ll ever need either
  • a lot more options means the UI is a bit more complex; once familiar, it’s not an issue
  • some services don’t play nice with brokerages - I keep an Ally account around just in case, and I honestly haven’t noticed any real issues (sometimes I can only link accounts one way, but that’s not an issue)

I switched from Ally to Fidelity last year for my primary bank and I’m loving it, and I highly recommend others give it a shot. If Fidelity isn’t your speed, Schwab works well too. Vanguard doesn’t offer a debit card, otherwise I’d recommend them as well (their money market funds are even better than Fidelity’s). I used to shop around for better savings rates, and now I don’t bother because Fidelity beats all of them on features and average returns (e.g. a better savings rate still loses if checking is near 0%).

Feel free to ask questions.

  • @paddirn
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    11 year ago

    I have accounts with Ally, Fidelity, and Schwab currently, though Ally has been my main e-bank, Fidelity for an inherited IRA with various stocks (though I’ve only been selling these off as I need to eventually clear the acct), and Schwab is for a few $100 in “play” money I blew on meme stocks that have since gone to shit. I was planning on cashing everything out of Fidelity when the market improved a little more (knock on wood) and moving it all to Ally, but I may rethink that after reading this.

    I didn’t realize the SPAXX fund was a money market acct that earned interest (I know it’s literally in the name), it’s just the default position if you sell off stocks. When it’s listed aside all the other stocks in the acct though, it doesn’t give any indication that it earns any interest.

    Is there a good amount to buy t-bills at if doing a t-bill ladder, or would you just take however much you plan to invest in total and divide by ~26 (every other week for a year)? What’s the min amt you can buy at?

    • @[email protected]OP
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      1 year ago

      SPAXX

      SPAXX is a money market fund, and it pays dividends, not interest. That’s a bit of a technicality, but there are some important distinctions in how they work.

      Money market funds don’t pay a fixed dividend, they just pay based on whatever the fund earned for the day, and you get the dividend once/month (usually the first day of the following month). So treat them like a mutual fund that never changes from $1/share and pays dividends monthly. The important number to look at imo is the 7-day average, which says how much it has returned over the previous 7 days, and currently that is 5%. If you look it up on Fidelity, you can also see returns for different periods, just like with mutual funds.

      What’s the min amt to can buy at?

      For t-bills, you have to buy in $1,000 increments, and you can only auto-roll if you buy new issues. Depending on the maturity of the t-bill, new bonds are issued weekly or every four weeks. Here’s the tentative schedule for various durations of t-bills (PDF warning).

      So if you want a 6-month t-bill, you’d buy in $1k increments evenly distributed over the six months. I personally do 13-weeks (~3 months) because the other half of my efund is in ibonds (will change soon), and I bought every two weeks because that seemed the easiest. If I went for 26 week t-bills, I’d probably buy every 4 weeks or so. You’ll probably want to space them out instead of buying all at once so you can just cancel autoroll instead of selling on the market in case t-bill returns increase dramatically and your t-bills are worth less (e.g. the thing that killed SVB).

      If you’re lazy, you can just buy a t-bill fund like TBIL if you just want to dump money in instead of building a ladder. I personally like the ladder though, so I went through the effort to build it.

      All of this applies to Schwab as well, and they have better money market funds (higher returns), so you may want to consider going there. I picked Fidelity because I already have an account there and won’t be moving anytime soon because their HSA is unmatched, but since you have both, you should look at what Schwab offers as well.