Hey all is my first post here and it looks like the main photo and a couple other photos below are not in the correct orientation.
I just got some new parts in to build a couple of throwy FW1A with aux (still waiting for the aux boards from OshPark). I got several different aspheric lenses, TIR optics that have been recommended in the past and the round-die Yinding 5050 emitter in 3000k (See the Opple 3 data below).
Still got some work to do as I need to work out which aspheric to use and the correct focal length which gives the most throw. After that I need to design a 3D printed spacer for the aspheric to sit on.
Edit: I like this emitter already, throwy (small emitting surface), warm (3000k), rosy (duv -0.0025!), and CRI not that bad! It is supposed to take up to around 8A of current I think.
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Outstanding! That is a very promising beam.
Dude! This mod is awesome
Thanks man! When this mod is complete, the light will have your T1616 adapter inside of it.
Hell yeah! You lucked out with the driver. The newer ones use the smaller package for the t85
I haven’t seen one of those, does it look like the original FET+7+1 driver otherwise, do you have a photo you can show us?
When I ordered my FW1A Pros, I asked the guy on the aliexpress store to show me a picture of the driver before I placed the order, in case they are still shipping FET+1 drivers.
Oh, sorry. For some reason my brain was reading FW1AA
@TacGriz I saw that you were looking for a throwy TIR for your FW1A, how about an aspheric lens? My mod is in progress but I think it looks quite promising. From preliminary testing, the beam is nice and round with the round-die emitter. But the emitter is magnified so clearly such that the uneveness in the phosphor can be seen on a white wall. Though it won’t be seen when used as a thrower in real life.
When we all realized the FW series was going the way of the Dodo, I snatched up a FW1A. I bought it purely for modding like @TacGriz did to SFT40 but I keep seeing these emitters and think that’s what I will go with. Excited to see what you settle on.
I think it is a good choice, even if you just use the crappy reflector from the FW1A Pro. I played around with that reflector very briefly and just raising that reflector a little bit will tighten up the beam from the Yinding.
I just need to have aux though, so I won’t be using a reflector.
How did you manage to pull a negative duv Yinding?? Every one I have seen is sickening. Good on you!!
From reading the Yinding thread over at BLF, there seems to be quite a large variation in tint measurements, both positive and negative duv. Someone measured a duv of -0.0067, so I guess I won the tint lottery.
