Both lights are modded to 3000K 219b, w 30 degree Pebbled Tir.

tldnr: Compare and Contrast Summary

The Mini has better regulation, runtime, and less flicker than the Pro. It lacks a constant on indicator button light, but has a more muggle friendly low battery warning.

The Pro has better low modes below 1 lumen, and much better ramping control. It also has a battery voltage check option.

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the longer version ;-)

Ramping

The Mini has its own version of a ramping UI (plus a toggle to a 3 mode clicky UI). The ramping on the Mini jumps up from the low mode, to about 60 lumens very quickly. It takes some fiddling to dial in a lower output, for example 10 lumens.

I like the Pro ramping speed better, it is much easier to fine tune to an output in the 10 lumen range.

Driver efficiency and regulation

The Mini has regulated output and can Sustain 300 lumens 4x longer than the Pro (53 minutes vs 13 minutes):

runtime charts courtesy of zeroair

The Mini has much lower flicker index. (flicker index is a combination of modulation depth and frequency).

The Pro has full PWM, iow 100% modulation, where the LED is turning all the way off and back on, albeit at very high frequency that is too fast to see.

Button light, low battery behavior

The Mini has a button light that only comes on for about 5 seconds when the light is first turned on. It is an automatic battery level indicator. When the battery is charged, the button light shines bright Green for 5 seconds when first turned on. With a CR123 battery (to simulate a discharged LiIon), the button light fast blinks bright Red, non stop, while the light is On. This is a very muggle friendly battery indicator.

The Pro has a button light that by default is on in dim Green all the time. I like this locator light feature. It helps me find the light in the dark, for example when I put it on my nightstand. The button light also helps me find the switch button when using the light. The Pro with a CR123 shows dim Green rapid flashes, only while the light is off.

Output Range

The lowest level on the Mini is 0.8 lumens, momentary maximum is 415 lumens, with a 3000K 219b.

The lowest level on the Pro is .02 lumens (w visible PWM when waving the light), momentary maximum is 480 lumens, also with 3000K 219b.

Flicker Index

The Mini:

Flicker Index of 0.2704 when at about 6 lumens output.

Flicker Index of 0.0042 when at about 30 lumens output.

(Flicker below 0.0500 is considered harmless.)

The Pro:

Flicker Index of 0.7951 at about 6 lumens output.

Flicker Index of 0.5339 at about 30 lumens output.

(The Pro scores poorly due to PWM, although it is very fast)

Opple 3 flicker measurements

https://i.imgur.com/M6p3q0h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YzKsaVt.jpg

  • @Artiet59
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    32 years ago

    Appreciate this write up Jon! I’ve been thinking about getting one of these little guys back in my collection, as they have quite a nice reflector and price. I’ll probably go mini, for the buck driver, and not have to worry about asking someone to uograde Anduril for me like i did on the Pro model. Or I could just buy the gchart adapter I suppose lol.

    • jon_sliderOP
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      12 years ago

      undefined> I’ll probably go mini, for the buck driver

      The mini is a fun option if you want less flicker, better regulation, and 4x more runtime. otoh the lowest mode is 1 lumen, if you want sublumen, the Pro is the way to go.

      also, the ramping on the Mini is not very smooth. It wants to jump from 1 lumen to 60 lumens really quickly, it takes some fiddling to get lower outputs. The Pro has a much better UI…

      bear in mind Neither the Mini, Nor the Pro, are made to use CR123. There was some confusion about that, the manual for the Mini is contradictory, but No, the Mini is Not CR123 friendly, nor the Pro either…

      They both indicate low battery with a CR123. And imo, a CR123 is a BAD Idea in a light with built in charging… Just a mistake waiting to happen. I just say No to CR123 in either model.

      Both models work well w Domed and Dedomed 519a. Its a nice reflector and does not have a beam problem with any LED Ive tried. Plus it is a drop in swap to switch to a pebbled Tir… Fun hosts.

      Good luck w your decisions ;-)

  • @MrSDI
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    22 years ago

    Nice write up! And nice to see some familiar names here! (jumped over from Reddit’s flashlight subreddit).

    • jon_sliderOP
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      12 years ago

      thank you taking the time to post kind words ;-)

      Happy Father’s Day!

  • @bunglesnacks
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    12 years ago

    These little guys provide really nice beams with just about any emitter I imagine. Every emitter I’ve tried in one looks great. That makes them great for swapping and trying different emitters out. And they are super easy to swap. And they fit standard 20mm TIR optics. I used to swap emitters into Convoy S2+s if I just wanted to check them out but then I started using one of my SC21 Minis because checking out different TIRs was so much easier.

    I prefer the Mini version not simply because of the buck driver. I don’t need the ramping because the stepped modes are spaced so well. Medium is perfect at 100lm and you can get 800-1000cd with one of the throwier emitters like XPLHI, SST-20, 219B, or 519Add.

    One of mine has had an Osram W1 in it for forever now. I found a great TIR optic for it off Yajiamei that blows a GT Nano away. It took me some time and a few tries to file down a centering gasket to use with it but eventually I got one perfect. Now I see Simon is selling 3030 5mm gaskets wish he had those 2 years ago. It is easily my most fun and amusing light.

    • jon_sliderOP
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      12 years ago

      great to share the fun of SC21 w you

      I have been using the Tir w no centering ring, and no glass, just the Oring between the bezel and Tir. Works well but I do have to be aware that the corners of the LED will grind a groove into the base of the Tir…

      Has not been an issue, but on a light that gets opened and closed several times, experimenting with different changes such as adding a glow in the dark tape around the LED, I did find the Tir had some bits of plastic shavings accumulating in the base opening… they cleaned out easily.

      fwiw on the Mini, with an sw30 and pebbled Tir, the outputs are moon 0.8 low 6 medium 50 high 180 turbo 380

      I like the ramping option because it lets me find outputs below medium…

      On the Pro I sometimes like using stepped modes, atm I have it setup with 24 steps, to simulate an HDS… at other times I have used 12 steps, to simulate a Zebra… Anduril is just super flexible… but sometimes I dont want the high flicker index…

      The Mini has much better regulation, much longer runtime, and much lower flicker index… the only downsides of the Mini for me, is lack of sublument outputs… and fiddling w the ramping to get below medium ;-)

      its great to have choices ;-)