I wanted to build a split Ergo from scratch, with a slightly more aggressive stagger than the Lily58 style board I had previously built. I also wanted to have a stabilized 2U spacebar and some RGB. The part that was most time-consuming was definitely designing the case in CAD and getting the switches and stabilizers to fit properly. Fortunately, it’s all pretty well documented so there wasn’t too much trial and error involved. Overall, it turned out pretty well!

    • @feitingen
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      21 year ago

      Took me embarrassingly long to realize this is the underside.

      I really like your design!

    • @nicolas33OP
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      31 year ago

      I was indeed thinking of this keyboard when I designed the case.

  • crankin
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    fedilink
    51 year ago

    This has such a nice finish, you really went above and beyond to get it looking good.

    I don’t know much about 3D printing, how did you get the outer surfaces looking so clean?

    • @nicolas33OP
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      41 year ago

      Thanks! The top surface looks pretty clean because I used the ironing feature, where the hot nozzle of the printer runs across the surface without extruding filament (or very little) to even out imperfections and small gaps. The print has its problems tho, probably like any 3d print. Optimizing your 3d printer and the print results is basically a hobby in itself.

    • zekiz
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      fedilink
      31 year ago

      Either he used ironing or an resin printer. I don’t know if you can get such a smooth surface with just ironing.

      He could also sanded it

  • @[email protected]
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    fedilink
    41 year ago

    This is really, really cool. I would love to do this one day. How does it feel to type on? Any reason you didn’t make a PCB? They’re really cheap these days

    • @nicolas33OP
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      41 year ago

      It feels pretty good and the sound is actually okay too. Maybe next time I’ll try it with a PCB. One advantage of hand wiring is that the RGB also shows through the top. That wasn’t really intentional, but it looks nice. A PCB would have blocked the light and I would need to add per key LEDs for the same effect.

  • @chexxor
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    11 year ago

    What processor did you use?

    • @nicolas33OP
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      21 year ago

      I am using Elite Pi microcontrollers (RP2040)

      • @chexxor
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        11 year ago

        Nice! I’ve been doing a lot of learning of the ESP32 world for IoT stuff. It has built-in Bluetooth! Looks like that one is pretty similar!

    • @nicolas33OP
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      edit-2
      1 year ago

      I definitely wanted stabilized space bars. I don’t like 1U for space and 1.5 or even 1.75U unstabilized is not really great in my opinion. The space bars on this board are XDA blanks because 2U cherry profile bars are hard to come by if you don’t want to spend a lot of money on the bars alone.

  • @[email protected]
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    fedilink
    11 year ago

    Isn’t it great to make your own design that has the features you want in it. I found myself wanting a lot more aggressive stagger from what is common (my ‘Q’ is a full key-length down from where ‘E’ is. I mostly came up with by just looking at my fingers.

    To mirror another commenter, perhaps consider doing a PCB next time. I did it after my first build, and am very happy with the result.