Splined tiles, solid mahogany, with radius faces to mimic weaving.

    • @[email protected]OP
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      41 year ago

      Thank you! Figuring out the process the first time around was…challenging. My first brilliant idea was to use a carousel jig with a big straight knife head on the shaper. All it made for me was splinters as every piece I ran through grenaded on me. After I cleaned out my pants, it was back to the drawing board.

  • @corroded
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    61 year ago

    How did you make the individual tiles? They all look very uniform in size and shape. Clever use of chamfer bits on a router maybe? Looks very nice.

    • @[email protected]OP
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      51 year ago

      Thanks! I jointed the stick straight, planed it for thickness and width, used a shaper to chamfer and the side dados. Sled jig with stop to cut to length, then sled jig with shaper for end dados. I built a carousel jig for tha bandsaw for the rough radius, then used a belt sander with a right angle table to smooth them out. I make extensive use of micrometers and digital readouts in my shop; very accurate sizing is the key to getting something like this together without gaps.

      • @corroded
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        11 year ago

        Wow, I knew it took some work, but that’s quite the process. I’m also happy to see I’m not the only person to use a shaper in my shop. I’ve heard the argument that they only make sense when you’re batching out stuff on an industrial scale, but I find myself using it all the time.

    • @[email protected]OP
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      31 year ago

      I jointed the stick straight, planed it for thickness and width, used a shaper to chamfer and the side dados. Sled jig with stop to cut to length, then sled jig with shaper for end dados. I built a carousel jig for the bandsaw for the rough radius, then used a belt sander with a right angle table to smooth them out.

    • @[email protected]OP
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      51 year ago

      Primarily longevity. This is for an exterior entry door. Also, I find veneer work tedious. I stick with solids whenever possible.