It has a serious case of ghosting/ringing and it also is unable to print the tip of a sword properly.
In my attempt to fix these it has only gotten worse as it now also has ugly edges, they look almost burned even though i llwered the temperature by one degree celsius.
I put a direct drive extruder on it, it was not printing succesfully when it was still bowden.
So far i’ve played around with the print speed a little, lowered the travel speed and printed some big corners pieces to make the frame more rigid.
It seems the slight layer shifting inconsistencies have gotten a bit better.
I think a large part of these issues come from the printer being so big and the weight of the direct drive extruder.
I haven’t been able to upload a picture and have no clue how to do it, the ringing is basically all over and the top 10mm look like a little lighting ⚡️instead of a smooth pointy tip.
But in general hardware is first thing to check and make sure its working fine. Then PID tune your bed and hotend, calibrate your temp, flow, retraction. Then if you are using klipper you can do ringing compensation and pressure advance. At this point the problem should be far away behind you
If you made any chanes on your hotend (I guess you did) you should definitely PID tune it
I’m still messing with the printer and after a lot of struggling it went from printing horrible looking to printing spaghetti back to printing something that looks somewhat melty. The hotend itself is still stock, but i just found out i don’t have a way to connect the printer to my pc.
After all this time it seems like the printer jumbled a lot of settings for no apparent reason, including something that controls the temperature. I printed a temp tower and the screen showed the temp actually changed but the result is identical for each temp.
Temp tower can look like that if filament can tolerate huge temp range, like a lot of good pla. You can just pick some temp in the middle of manufacturers recomendation. I actually print single wall hollow cube as tower and looking for best surface and strength by sepparating it with fingers. I do the same for flow, but also measurimg wall thickness.
Stock hotend is not best, but probably not limiting you unless you are trying to print rly fast. As long as it doesnt leak or clog and if thermistor and heater are seated properly and fan is spinning you shouldnt need an upgrade.
You can connect printer with usbA to usbB cable i guess. But your issues are diferent now, its best to make a post with pictures this time. Its too much guessing like this
Yeah it’s nearly impossible without any visible cues, i still haven’t been able to upload photo’s yet. Not even ones as small as 900kb