I just removed the fuse for the DCM in my Subaru earlier today. Both because I don’t trust Subaru with my data (the privacy policy says basically by existing in the cabin, you consent to being audio recorded and the recordings sent back to Suburu for any use Subaru might want to use them for) and because my car apparently can’t go four days without being driven without the battery dying. I’m hoping the problem is parasitic draw from the Starlink DCM module thing that I just disabled.
If it’s not that, I’ll have to do more diagnostics.
There’s a recall for that. They will replace your telematics module for free with a “bypass box”, which preserves the function of the front speakers, which stop working when you pull that fuse. Sorry I don’t know if this also ends the telematics phone home problem. This is specifically to address the battery drain problem. It fixed my similar battery issues.
Anybody know if it turns off the data uploads, or not?
To fix the battery drain problem, you can add a jumper wire inside the main fuse box that makes it so the DCM is powered only when the car is running, not all the time. Details here:
It’s a well-known problem with Subarus. There’s a class action suit about it. My Subaru supposedly isn’t from one of the affected model years, so it may well be a long shot hoping this is the DCM. But I guess I’ll find out for sure if the problem with my particular Subaru is the DCM.
Another thing I’ve heard from a random Reddit post is that the alternator’s firmware might not allow the battery to fully charge.
And, of course, anything else might pull current for no reason. Or the batter might be fucked. Who knows. I’ll figure it out eventually.
That’s the state of vehicles these days. I bought the Subaru I’m driving now because my 2005 Saturn was getting harder and harder to maintain. (And because I wanted more than 1,000 cubic centimeters of cargo space. (Yes, I’m being hyperbolic, but yeah.))
Subaru is hardly the worst offender on privacy. I don’t know that I could have gotten a less “smart” car without getting an older vehicle, and the one I was selling was harder to maintain specifically because it was old.
I think the best we can hope for is hackable devices. Being able to just remove the DCM fuse is “hackable” in my book. I got a robot vacuum cleaner, but I got the model that’s best for running Valetudo. I got a smartphone with an unlocked bootloader so I could run LineageOS. I didn’t get a Nintendo Switch until the Fusee Gilee vulnerability was discovered. I didn’t really shop around for a “hackable” car before I bought this Subaru. But I’m satisfied with the “just unplug the DCM fuse” solution.
I just removed the fuse for the DCM in my Subaru earlier today. Both because I don’t trust Subaru with my data (the privacy policy says basically by existing in the cabin, you consent to being audio recorded and the recordings sent back to Suburu for any use Subaru might want to use them for) and because my car apparently can’t go four days without being driven without the battery dying. I’m hoping the problem is parasitic draw from the Starlink DCM module thing that I just disabled.
If it’s not that, I’ll have to do more diagnostics.
There’s a recall for that. They will replace your telematics module for free with a “bypass box”, which preserves the function of the front speakers, which stop working when you pull that fuse. Sorry I don’t know if this also ends the telematics phone home problem. This is specifically to address the battery drain problem. It fixed my similar battery issues.
Anybody know if it turns off the data uploads, or not?
I’m pretty sure my 2021 Crosstrek isn’t in scope of that recall (at least as far as Subaru is concerned), but I’ll do some more research. Thanks!
To fix the battery drain problem, you can add a jumper wire inside the main fuse box that makes it so the DCM is powered only when the car is running, not all the time. Details here:
https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/fix-for-parasitic-drain.553947/
Yeah, but I don’t want the DCM to be powered/running when the car is running either because of the data privacy concerns.
I mean, that definitely shouldn’t be the issue with the battery. But, definitely let us know if it is cause that’d seriously be news worthy info.
It’s a well-known problem with Subarus. There’s a class action suit about it. My Subaru supposedly isn’t from one of the affected model years, so it may well be a long shot hoping this is the DCM. But I guess I’ll find out for sure if the problem with my particular Subaru is the DCM.
Another thing I’ve heard from a random Reddit post is that the alternator’s firmware might not allow the battery to fully charge.
And, of course, anything else might pull current for no reason. Or the batter might be fucked. Who knows. I’ll figure it out eventually.
Why the fuck don’t you sell that spying smart piece of shit then? You know, they aren’t really forcing us to buy new trendy things.
That’s the state of vehicles these days. I bought the Subaru I’m driving now because my 2005 Saturn was getting harder and harder to maintain. (And because I wanted more than 1,000 cubic centimeters of cargo space. (Yes, I’m being hyperbolic, but yeah.))
Subaru is hardly the worst offender on privacy. I don’t know that I could have gotten a less “smart” car without getting an older vehicle, and the one I was selling was harder to maintain specifically because it was old.
I think the best we can hope for is hackable devices. Being able to just remove the DCM fuse is “hackable” in my book. I got a robot vacuum cleaner, but I got the model that’s best for running Valetudo. I got a smartphone with an unlocked bootloader so I could run LineageOS. I didn’t get a Nintendo Switch until the Fusee Gilee vulnerability was discovered. I didn’t really shop around for a “hackable” car before I bought this Subaru. But I’m satisfied with the “just unplug the DCM fuse” solution.