• @[email protected]
    link
    fedilink
    English
    19 hours ago

    I know the guy at Halfords hasn’t even heard of wax and they don’t sell it.

    Unfortunately, a lot of bike shops are either ignorant to wax, or they don’t sell it on purpose because it’s too good. LOL Many of the brands you’ll find in a local bike shop are well known, but the wet lubes from those companies are terrible.

    Just looked it up and apparently need to rewax every time it gets wet? I live in the UK, that doesn’t sound practical at all.

    To put things into context: no matter how you lube your chain, including using oil-based wet lube, if you get your chain wet, it should be cleaned to remove contaminants from inside the pins/rollers.

    Wax provides a physical barrier against contaminants, and protects much better than oil lube (with attracts contaminants).

    I ride with fenders, so even the worst Canadian winters (salt, melted snow, road contaminants, etc.) don’t cause my chain to be contaminated. I can come home from a ride, give it a wipe with a microfiber cloth, and the cloth will look clean because nothing stuck to it.

    If it’s really bad, I just swap the chain out. Or, if I’m short on time, I’ll keep my chain on while I wash the crap off my bike, then use an air blower to get rid of any moisture. Seems to be working great.

    Wet chains = rusted chains for most people. Only chains with rust inhibitors (i.e. KMC Z8.1) will help, but keeping your chain dry will go a long way.

    If you are waxing your chains, and anticipate regular poor weather, I’d suggest having multiple chains in rotation. This ends up being much faster than cleaning and re-lubing a chain that has wet lube on it, and the chains continue to last forever while being clean.

    During the summer months, I’ll do an immersion wax every 1000-1500 km or so, but will “top up” with a wax drip lube every few hundred KM). The chain runs dead silent, clean enough for me to run my fingers along it without getting dirty (even after a 100km+ ride), and my drivetrain doesn’t wear out.

    I avoided waxing because I thought it would be too much trouble. But I’m saving way more time now, and I’m not ruining microfiber cloths and using solvents anymore!

    • @[email protected]
      link
      fedilink
      English
      18 hours ago

      Cleaning a chain every time it gets wet is kinda impractical isn’t it? That would be pretty much a daily task.

      • @[email protected]
        link
        fedilink
        English
        17 hours ago

        Again, every chain, no matter the lube should be cleaned after a wet ride.

        Whether you choose to ignore that or not, totally depends on your goals.

        I use wipperman links, which allows me to remove my chain without tools. So it’s quite literally a 10-second swap, and only if the chain is too “dirty” (again, it really doesn’t get dirt when it’s waxed) to cleaned with a cloth.

        For context, I my first winter ate through chains, and all of my components were rusted by the spring no matter how obsessive I was about keeping things clean.

        This year, not a single bit of rust. No chain wear at all over thousands of KM. No wasted rags or solvents. And very little of my time went to chain maintenance.

        When I waxed my chain the first time, the experience was so positive, I immediately switched two other bikes over to waxed chains that same week.

        I ride a lot (min 500km a month over the winter), so if you are an occasional cyclist, then it may not be as profound of an experience.

        • @[email protected]
          link
          fedilink
          English
          17 hours ago

          Looking into the stuff needed for it, what product names should I look for? Almost everything is a liquid you put on the chain rather than a heat melted was which in comparison barely seems to exist.