Hey gang, I’m on the fence about ordering a Prusa Core One. I have a mk3 and love it but I’m ready for an upgrade. Anyone here have any experience with a Voron 2.4 though?

Right now I have the mk3 and a Kobra Max. The Max is OK for big stuff and I could pass on the mk3 if I got the One. But I could probably get by with just a 300x300 Voron.

My concern is that is it more a project than a go-to printer? I got a lot of that out of my system with my first printer, an AnetA8. That was more upgrading and tuning than printing. It was fun and I learned a whole lot, and I recommend a path like that to anyone interested in doing more than plug and print. But at this point I have more interest in printing than tinkering. And I still get a lot of that with the Max anyway.

But a core xy that’s 300x300 does have an appeal. And the Vorons are pretty sexy looking too.

  • snrklEnglish
    4•3 days ago

    Mk4s owner here and I’m super unhappy with the output of my factory assembled mk4s, due to a consistent first layer problem. The mk4s is related to the core 1 as far as I know as the “next gen”.

    Prusa seems to be aware of the issue, but I feel they are still messing around greatly with any kind of actual solution to the problem, that actually led me to pulling the pin on any work purchases from Prusa at all.

    I actually got sent a second factory assembled mk4s as a “make good”, and the new unit had the exact same problem, right out of the box…

    If I had my time again, I wish I’d have gone the Voron in some kind of pre-packed kit form…

    • @IMALlamaEnglish
      2•2 days ago

      Not a Prusa user, but the title of that bug does look accurate - the first layer is too low. Does Prusa support bed mesh and is there a way of setting the zero point of the bed relative to whatever they’re doing for z-endstop?

      In klipper land there are solutions to this, but they’re not baked into the out of the box solution.

      On my Voron if I want to guarantee a good first layer, I must:

      • let the bed temp stabilize after hitting temp for a bit. The bed is a nice thick piece of aluminum, which helps with consistent temp, but when the thermistor hits temp the top is still a little cool
      • wipe the nozzle to get it clean since my printer uses the nozzle for homing z. There are mods to automate this
      • bed mesh. This is available out of the box with klipper, but it will be turned off until you configure it and include it in print_start
      • I use a z Caliberation macro to align the z height of my z end stop and my klicky bed probe that’s used for bed meshing. When setting this up, you need to make sure to use the same origin point as the bed mesh otherwise your first layer can be too low or too high

      My first layer is nearly aways flat. It will occasionally be too high or too low because there was a goober on the end stop or something else along those lines.

      Are you sure things are clean? Likewise, are you running a mesh? Have you tried adjusting z-offset up a touch?

      Honestly, I would start with first layer squish as you could easily be too low.