I started bouldering late last year and have plateaued at around a V4 level. I feel like my biggest weakness by far is my finger strength, so I’m thinking of starting hangboarding to work on that.
I’m not sure where to start though, I feel like I already tax my fingers when climbing so I don’t want to go overboard and injure myself.
A little clarity to add is once you can climb V4 consistently then you could start worrying about things like actually incorporating hamgboarding but the sub max training you could start doing very early.
It’s still easy to overdo sub-max hanging though. You don’t get any feedback until it’s already too late. You only start noticing the problem on your next session.
That’s why I was recommending 50% bodyweight if they decide to start now.
Oh yeah I would totally agree. Start low weight and go slow. I haven’t really had a gym with a full pulley system so I have not really had a way to measure how much weight is removed by what I’m calling sub max or no hangs. It’s basically this https://youtu.be/3FNZdixeuZw. After your comment I went looking around and I think I’ve heard this referenced at around %80 body weight which is much higher than I thought so that could have lead to some unpleasant times.