I started bouldering late last year and have plateaued at around a V4 level. I feel like my biggest weakness by far is my finger strength, so I’m thinking of starting hangboarding to work on that.

I’m not sure where to start though, I feel like I already tax my fingers when climbing so I don’t want to go overboard and injure myself.

  • @scutigerEnglish
    1•1 year ago

    It’s still easy to overdo sub-max hanging though. You don’t get any feedback until it’s already too late. You only start noticing the problem on your next session.

    That’s why I was recommending 50% bodyweight if they decide to start now.

    • @iridiomEnglish
      1•1 year ago

      Oh yeah I would totally agree. Start low weight and go slow. I haven’t really had a gym with a full pulley system so I have not really had a way to measure how much weight is removed by what I’m calling sub max or no hangs. It’s basically this https://youtu.be/3FNZdixeuZw. After your comment I went looking around and I think I’ve heard this referenced at around %80 body weight which is much higher than I thought so that could have lead to some unpleasant times.