I’m not so sure about that. I have gone all-metal (and bimetallic) on my 3V2 for the, uh. The bit connecting the heater to the heat sink. The HEATBREAK. Right. But the heater block, sensor, heat sink are all original and they have absolutely no problem with 1.0mm, at least up to 220. I’ve done various power measurements and it’s not having to work hard to do it, either.
The other changes I’ve made to the hot end assembly have been adding more cooling, not more heat. (It’s dual fan now and has better airflow to the heatsink.)
I mean, it could all be due to the bimetallic heatbreak. But, well… 1.0mm is 100% absolutely fine on my 3V2.
It’s not just the nozzle size alone. Each hotend has a limit to the volumetric output, how much plastic it can melt in the time it takes the filament to travel through the hotzone in a certain time, which is roughly calculated by line_width x layer_height x print_speed, e.g 0.6 x 0.3 x 50 = 9. That the limit is varies depending on your print temperature and it also isn’t linear - you start underextruding up to 50% before you hit the point where the extruders starts skipping for example - but there is a limit - for standard hotends it’s usually around 15mm^(3)/s.
So. speaking of cooling… I’ve been floating an idea around for a bit now. Ever play with an airbrush kit (like for painting minis?)
hear me out here. Imagine setting up a plennum pressure chamber fed by an airbrush compressor, then using servos or something to control conic plug valves (as in the airbrush itself.) Now, imagine something similar to a bowden tube running to the hot end from said plenum chamber… directing the air exactly where you want it.
seriously, most the weight of the hot end is now in fans. At least, for me. (heater cooler, nozzle cooler, the other nozzle cooler.)
Imagine how fast we could get with bowden-air… (yeah, I’ll have to work on that name…)
I’m not so sure about that. I have gone all-metal (and bimetallic) on my 3V2 for the, uh. The bit connecting the heater to the heat sink. The HEATBREAK. Right. But the heater block, sensor, heat sink are all original and they have absolutely no problem with 1.0mm, at least up to 220. I’ve done various power measurements and it’s not having to work hard to do it, either.
The other changes I’ve made to the hot end assembly have been adding more cooling, not more heat. (It’s dual fan now and has better airflow to the heatsink.)
I mean, it could all be due to the bimetallic heatbreak. But, well… 1.0mm is 100% absolutely fine on my 3V2.
It’s not just the nozzle size alone. Each hotend has a limit to the volumetric output, how much plastic it can melt in the time it takes the filament to travel through the hotzone in a certain time, which is roughly calculated by line_width x layer_height x print_speed, e.g 0.6 x 0.3 x 50 = 9. That the limit is varies depending on your print temperature and it also isn’t linear - you start underextruding up to 50% before you hit the point where the extruders starts skipping for example - but there is a limit - for standard hotends it’s usually around 15mm^(3)/s.
https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/flow-rate-benchmarking-of-a-hotend
So. speaking of cooling… I’ve been floating an idea around for a bit now. Ever play with an airbrush kit (like for painting minis?)
hear me out here. Imagine setting up a plennum pressure chamber fed by an airbrush compressor, then using servos or something to control conic plug valves (as in the airbrush itself.) Now, imagine something similar to a bowden tube running to the hot end from said plenum chamber… directing the air exactly where you want it.
seriously, most the weight of the hot end is now in fans. At least, for me. (heater cooler, nozzle cooler, the other nozzle cooler.)
Imagine how fast we could get with bowden-air… (yeah, I’ll have to work on that name…)