I’m looking to upgrade my Ender 3 Max Neo.

It has Marlin 2.0.8.3-HW-V4.2.2-SW-V1.4.7G firmware which I am unable to flash over to other versions of Marlin for some reason, it just crashes.

My board is a 4.2.2. Obviously as indicated by the note above.

I don’t mind changing the board out but I’m having a hard time finding any information on the 3 Max Neo and would rather not buy parts just to end up finding out that it’s not going to work.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • @[email protected]OPEnglish
    1•1 year ago

    I would eventually like to go to direct drive and potentially add another extruder at some point so I can print in multiple colors and print models that require supports using a different filament like PVA.

    Basically looking to overhaul it and give it a bit more functionality.

    I already have a raspberry pi with octoprint on it and a camera with remote access so I can check on it from time to time or send prints to it without the need to bother with the SD card.

    I will definitely look into the things you mentioned also. I’ve got aftermarket springs on it already.

    • @KremlinJanitorEnglish
      1•1 year ago

      I swapped to direct drive myself. Went with the Creality Sprite Pro since I already had mounted a CR touch to my print head.I thought it made the most sense for interoperability.

      • @[email protected]OPEnglish
        1•1 year ago

        I actually went ahead and got a Sprite Neo and put it on the other day, installed Klipper after digging around for a printer.cfg for the Max Neo and finally finding one.

        Now I’m just going through making sure everything is configured, levelled, and working properly as I have time.

        • KaleEnglish
          1•1 year ago

          If you have a filament runout sensor, the klipper default settings aren’t great. If the sensor activates, the printer shuts down after about an hour, losing your home position. With a part on the bed, you can’t re-home, so it’s a wasted print.

          The mesh leveling isn’t automatic either. You might want to add either auto-load your default mesh leveling if you always use the same print surface, or put mesh leveling codes in the starting G-code section of your slicer.

          I ran the pressure advance tuning and found that I needed a ton of pressure advance. My prints turned out much better.

          I also got improvements by reducing the allowable deviation in the slicer (G-code files get much bigger, though), and I load files as STEP files directly in Prusaslicer. STL doesn’t have curves, it’s a series of planes. STEP files have geometric primitives and can have curves.