Isn’t the UK plug like how it is because of the awful ring circuits in buildings built after the war? Otherwise could we have RCDs and overload protection at the switchboard?
As an Australian I’ll stand in solidarity with the UK on having switches for each power socket – immensely convenient.
I have no opinion on my country’s plug, it seems to work well and not grip loosely. But I’m open to being convinced that others are better.
I am convinced the Danish power socket contributes to national happiness.
Well there’s cost. Think about how many outlets in an office or home.
You may not understand the engineering of “UL” or safe switches because they would have to have full current of a short going through them, you have arcing, lifetime toggles, the ozone weakening the molded plastic, etc.
With most outlets (receptacles) there is a solid copper bar that goes from the wall wires to the part that pushes against the prongs of the plug. With a switch it’s slightly more complicated and would you only break the hot? What if someone wired outlet backwards?
Sure you could make every plug involve a fuse, circuit breaker, arc fault, GFCI, and a switch. And a USB transformer and nightlight.
It could help though in many homes if you had only one outlet wired to a switch, and could help with parasitic current draws of almost everything modern.
You wouldn’t because they don’t exist outside of switch in place of top outlet you could wire to control one outlet.
But honestly the US already has switches on many outlets, because GFCI is required near water and some bedrooms, so the GFCI outlet can act like a switch with the test button
I suppose it’s a use you never realised you needed until you have it. Here are some examples off the top of my head:
Sandwich press stays in same place, doesn’t have an on/off button. Just flick switch and no need to unplug when not in use.
Power strip for the TV is wedged behind a credenza. Need to power cycle everything plugged into it but would need to move the whole credenza to unplug it. Flick the switch with a stick or arm and it’s done.
Using power tools and want to be sure they definitely won’t turn on while adjusting them: flick the switch and no need to unplug.
I mean, the same can be said for most plugs. I’ve had my own experience with US plugs, and it hurt so bad I thought it had punctured the bottom of my food.
I find the love for the UK plug fascinating, as to me it’s one of the worst designed pug types:
It’s bulky. This makes small appliances annoying, plus it increases the chance the plug can be damaged/broken if it drops onto a hard surface.
The plus is weighted opposite of the pins, meaning they become caltrops if dropped to the ground.
Fuses in plugs are unnecessary in countries where standards for housing wiring exist. Plus, even if you want to improve that, why decree fuses in plugs instead of fuses in walls and power strips? The latter you have far less of, take the practical route and decree fuses to be where the problem is, not next to the problem.
Even if for whatever reason every single device that’ll be produced going forward needs to be fused (so this isn’t about current in the strips or the wall lines, but about the devices), put the fuses in the devices. This prevents some mechanical problems in case the cable gets damaged (again, the fuse is part of the problematic circuit it’s trying to fuse for, not away from it), but more importantly it removed the need for a very bulky plug.
It’s important to keep in mind that UK plugs were a necessity (ring circuits without circuit fuses in homes due to a copper shortage), not a desired result. They are good for what they had to do, but in times where the limitation no longer stops you from using a better plug style, they aren’t needed and just add bulk and complexity.
We do mandate all circuits have RCD/GFCI now, but we’re not taking away fuses in plugs.
If a lamp starts drawing too much current for its wire, it might be on a 20A breaker. It should have a 1A fuse in the plug.
Fuses on the sockets would mean either specific sockets and circuits for low, medium, and high power devices or a loss of specificity. In fact there are 5 levels, so 5 different levels to replicate with your system.
For a short or earth the RCD trips. If more goes out on the live than returns to the neutral the RCD trips. If the current goes high but returns correctly to the neutral, the RCD does nothing, the fuse in the plug breaks.
Fuses are an inch by a quarter inch.
Fuses and plugs could be made smaller but to be honest the pins and wires need to be able to take 13A.
Most of the bulk is about the length of the pins. Making it mechanically safe so the earth connects before the live, making it difficult to accidentally pull out the wall, and making sure no live connection is contactable when partly outside the wall.
We have low power travel adapters for low power devices that fold away bits they don’t need. Or separate onto pieces.
I think we’re good. Plugs are still smaller than AC-DC adapters we use all the time. Calling the bulky is a bit of a stretch. They’re aren’t bulky, even compared to a modern phone charger.
There are so many well thought out features to UK plugs and sockets there is no contest.
Isn’t the UK plug like how it is because of the awful ring circuits in buildings built after the war? Otherwise could we have RCDs and overload protection at the switchboard?
As an Australian I’ll stand in solidarity with the UK on having switches for each power socket – immensely convenient.
I have no opinion on my country’s plug, it seems to work well and not grip loosely. But I’m open to being convinced that others are better.
I am convinced the Danish power socket contributes to national happiness.
Admittedly, that’s pretty awesome. I don’t understand why these sockets with power switches are not common elsewhere.
Well there’s cost. Think about how many outlets in an office or home.
You may not understand the engineering of “UL” or safe switches because they would have to have full current of a short going through them, you have arcing, lifetime toggles, the ozone weakening the molded plastic, etc.
With most outlets (receptacles) there is a solid copper bar that goes from the wall wires to the part that pushes against the prongs of the plug. With a switch it’s slightly more complicated and would you only break the hot? What if someone wired outlet backwards?
Sure you could make every plug involve a fuse, circuit breaker, arc fault, GFCI, and a switch. And a USB transformer and nightlight.
It could help though in many homes if you had only one outlet wired to a switch, and could help with parasitic current draws of almost everything modern.
Now I want plugs with nightlights so they’re easier to find…
Don’t overestimate the cost
https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-2-gang-dp-switched-plug-socket-white-5-pack/49620
That’s the retail price for 5, including tax.
Trade will be 20% cheaper if not more for buying in bulk.
If I moved to the states, my home would get switches on outlets.
You wouldn’t because they don’t exist outside of switch in place of top outlet you could wire to control one outlet.
But honestly the US already has switches on many outlets, because GFCI is required near water and some bedrooms, so the GFCI outlet can act like a switch with the test button
They absolutely do exist. I’d just have to install them.
Because they solve a problem that ~nobody has for ~all their sockets.
Think about it: How many of your sockets do you actually use the switch on? 10%? 5%? Less?
It’s smarter to put switches only where they are needed, after all every component in a circuit decreases efficiency and maintainability.
I suppose it’s a use you never realised you needed until you have it. Here are some examples off the top of my head:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-2-gang-dp-switched-plug-socket-white-5-pack/49620
These things last decades. Even the cheapest ones.
A switch should never reduce efficiency any more than the distance in extra wire (a couple of centimetres at most).
If it does I don’t know how you’ve found one cheaper than an already incredibly cheap product.
:D
The schuko plug is an even better implementation of that system because it’s symmetryic plug allows for more flexibility.
For example, when you step on them, the plugs hurt a lot more than a Lego brick.
We have switches on the socket so rarely need to actually unplug anything.
Yeah UK plugs are what happened when the british military had millions of caltrops left after the war…
I mean, the same can be said for most plugs. I’ve had my own experience with US plugs, and it hurt so bad I thought it had punctured the bottom of my food.
All continental European standards are harmless, they lay flat and the prongs are thick and round
Type G plugs always land on the ground with the pins up though.
I find the love for the UK plug fascinating, as to me it’s one of the worst designed pug types:
It’s important to keep in mind that UK plugs were a necessity (ring circuits without circuit fuses in homes due to a copper shortage), not a desired result. They are good for what they had to do, but in times where the limitation no longer stops you from using a better plug style, they aren’t needed and just add bulk and complexity.
Fused plugs still have a big advantage.
The amperage can be specific to the device.
We do mandate all circuits have RCD/GFCI now, but we’re not taking away fuses in plugs.
If a lamp starts drawing too much current for its wire, it might be on a 20A breaker. It should have a 1A fuse in the plug.
Fuses on the sockets would mean either specific sockets and circuits for low, medium, and high power devices or a loss of specificity. In fact there are 5 levels, so 5 different levels to replicate with your system.
https://www.stevensonplumbing.co.uk/bs1362-fuses.html
For a short or earth the RCD trips. If more goes out on the live than returns to the neutral the RCD trips. If the current goes high but returns correctly to the neutral, the RCD does nothing, the fuse in the plug breaks.
Fuses are an inch by a quarter inch.
Fuses and plugs could be made smaller but to be honest the pins and wires need to be able to take 13A.
Most of the bulk is about the length of the pins. Making it mechanically safe so the earth connects before the live, making it difficult to accidentally pull out the wall, and making sure no live connection is contactable when partly outside the wall.
We have low power travel adapters for low power devices that fold away bits they don’t need. Or separate onto pieces.
I think we’re good. Plugs are still smaller than AC-DC adapters we use all the time. Calling the bulky is a bit of a stretch. They’re aren’t bulky, even compared to a modern phone charger.
I absolutely second this