• Pirky
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    4 months ago

    The two I’ve used are the one in the image (it’s from Anker, I forget the model) and Logitech’s MX Vertical (they have a second, smaller version if the original is too big). I’ve been maining the Vertical the past 4 years for work and personal use.
    Both have pros and cons:
    Anker is cheaper. ~$35 vs ~$80. Also has a built in slot to put the receiver in when not in use.
    It curves with your hand more than the Vertical.
    Anker uses easily replaceable AAA batteries. Usually lasted me about 3 months before I needed to swap them. I only used it for work though.

    The Vertical can connect to 3 different devices (1 dongle, 2 Bluetooth) whereas Anker is limited to whatever the dongle is connected to.
    The Vertical is made of better feeling materials; like a rubber for extra grip vs hard plastic with the Anker.
    There’s a USB C port to charge its (not easily replaceable) battery.
    Edit: Vertical won’t go to “sleep” like the Anker will. If the Anker isn’t touched for X minutes, it will go to sleep and you’ll have to click one of the switches to wake it. Otherwise moving it won’t move the cursor. Not that huge of an issue, but definitely annoying if you don’t know what’s going on.

    However, there is a design flaw with the Vertical. Logitech run their wireless mice at very low voltage and current to save on battery. That’s how they get a 240 mAh battery to last for around a month of heavy use.
    The problem with this is you need to use particular switches, otherwise corrosion starts to build up on the connectors. This corrosion leads to incomplete or missed clicks, phantom double clicks, or it’s impossible to hold a click.
    From what I remember, standard switches are designed for 5V, since that’s what wired mice normally run at. But modern wireless mice operate around a tenth of that. Logitech never made the switch (heh) to switches rated for that low voltage. At least not when I bought mine.

    My Vertical had that issue. And rather than buy an entirely new mouse, I went in, desoldered the old switches and replaced them with new ones (I think I went with Kale’s light blue switches). I did that in summer '22 and haven’t had any issues since.
    The rubber material is also showing wear and tear where my fingers sit, but that’s just cosmetic.

    I got the Anker one for my mom holiday '22 and she’s been happy with it. It helped the discomfort in her hand.
    Both mice improved the stiffness in my right hand, so either one will get the job done. I will also say that there is a bit of an adjustment period. Surprisingly, changing the angle of your hand kind of throws you off and takes some getting used to. Before my office went remote, my coworkers would avoid using it because it wasn’t easy for them to switch to for just a short period of time.

    Hopefully this info is helpful. I can try answering any questions you have on them, but those are the only two I have experience in.

    Edit 2: Phrasing

      • Pirky
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        34 months ago

        The Anker doesn’t have a port to use wired. But you can with the Logitech. You can also use it while it’s charging.

      • Sam, The Man
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        24 months ago

        Actually the Anker comes in wired predominantly; I usually find them while looking for the other.

      • shuzuko
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        14 months ago

        The wired version of the Anker is better than the wireless, imo. I’ve had the wired version at work for three years now and have been happy with it - comfy, pretty light, cord is a good length. My coworker has the wireless and when I use it I find it heavier and less responsive.

    • @[email protected]
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      24 months ago

      There is a design flaw with the Vertical. Logitech, like with other mice, use the wrong switches in it. The mouse operates at very low voltage and current; lower than what the switches are rated for. This leads to corrosion building up on the metal switches, leading to incomplete/missed clicks, phantom double clicks, or impossible to hold a click.

      Wow that is a major screw up. Probably part of the planned obsolescence though.

      • Pirky
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        14 months ago

        It’s very possible. It happened to a previous Logitech mouse of mine, which led to me using a Razer for the next 6 years. And with how much work it was to take this apart, I could see them wanting me to just buy a new $80-100 mouse every two years.

        I went down a rabbit hole to find this info out. People dug deep trying to find what was going on with the switches.

        • @[email protected]
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          24 months ago

          So basically you’re saying that my beloved MX Vertical will 100% fail pretty soon? I freaking love this mouse, it’s so comfortable and elegant and a joy to use :(

          • Pirky
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            34 months ago

            It’s possible. There’s also a chance Logitech started using the right switches by the time you bought yours. Once you start getting the weird clicking behavior, that’s a sign the switches are on their way out.
            But if you’re willing to put in the work, you can replace the switches yourself. iFixit has instructions on how to replace the switches. I followed that and I was able to successfully swap mine.

            • @[email protected]
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              24 months ago

              Good to know, I’ll look out for those signs then, thanks a lot!

              Praise iFixit. Soldering required does mean that I’ll have to learn that first though. Do you have, by any chance, a recommendation for a sort of “intro to soldering” type of video/content that I can start with?

              • Pirky
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                4 months ago

                Sadly, I don’t. I pretty much looked online for a recommended temp for my soldering iron, picked a tip that seemed appropriate, and slowly desoldered it.
                Pro tips: get a tool to hold the circuit board for you. I didn’t have one when I did it and it was a pain the ass. And actually dangerous because you have your fingers working near a very hot piece of metal.
                Also the switches are connected by 3 rather spaced solder points. You’ll have to balance heating all the solder points to keep it soft, and then use a pair of tweezers to slowly wiggle the switch out.
                Putting the new switch in is easier. Just need to make sure you orient it correctly and make sure it isn’t misaligned. Or else it might not click right. Thankfully it’s not hard to line up.

                • @[email protected]
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                  24 months ago

                  Got it, thanks! Very specific advice, I feel a bit more secure now and I’ll save this for when I have to replace the switches, that being hopefully never :P.