I have trouble fixing the terrible seams I’m getting. I’ve followed Elli’s print tuning guide and calibrated extruder, tuned PA (it’s now 0.035) and extrusion multiplier.

I’ve tried adjusting both retraction length and speed, but it doesn’t seem to have much impact. I’m not using “wipe on retract” or “retract on layer change”, I only retract if travel distance is longer than 3mm. Retract is 0.3mm @35mm/s.

I’ve tried reducing PA smooth time too, but this also doesn’t seem to have a noticable impact.

I’ve tried reducing seam gap from the default 10% in Orca all the way down to 0%, but the bad seams persist.

I’ve tried with “wipe on loops” both disabled and enabled with no difference.

I’ve tried with both arachne and classic wall generator, no difference.

I’ve tried different wall orders, inner/outer, inner/outer/inner and outer/inner, all with the same bad seams.

Filament in the picture is matte PLA, it is without doubt dry and generally prints well aside from the seams. It’s stored vacuum sealed with silica, and I use a filament dryer to dry if I suspect wet filament.

I’m running out of ideas for where to tweak to get a decent result.

  • @[email protected]OP
    link
    fedilink
    English
    29 months ago

    Yeah I’ve tried that, but it’s still really bad, almost worse, with these scattered all over the surface.

    • @Betch
      link
      English
      2
      edit-2
      9 months ago

      Yeah I thought that might happen too. I’ve never seen seams like that before. What temp are you printing at?

        • @Betch
          link
          English
          29 months ago

          Have you ever done a PID tuning?

          • @[email protected]OP
            link
            fedilink
            English
            29 months ago

            Yes, I recently switched the hotend from a proprietary one to a regular volcano hotend and did PID tuning.

            • @Betch
              link
              English
              2
              edit-2
              9 months ago

              Did you notice this kind of thing happening before you switched your hot end? I’m assuming you’ve tested printing at a higher temp already but I have to ask anyway. 200C is kinda low for some PLAs.

              • @[email protected]OP
                link
                fedilink
                English
                29 months ago

                Yeah I’ve tried 190-220C, which is the range specified by the manufacturer of the filament.

                I don’t remember seeing this issue before the change, but I’m still new to the hobby and may just have overlooked or accepted it earlier.

                • @Betch
                  link
                  English
                  29 months ago

                  Is there a way I could see the file you’re trying to print?

                  • @[email protected]OP
                    link
                    fedilink
                    English
                    29 months ago

                    This is just the basic cylinder that’s part of orca slicer that I’m using to troubleshoot the issue because it’s quick to print and the issue is clearly visible.