Last time I brewed at home, I had my fermentation bucket in my flat, where the heating pretty much took care about all thermal regulation I needed back then. As I now have kids, I don’t feel comfortable doing that anymore for various reasons.

I have freed up some space in my garage now for brewing & fermenting, but I have no heating there. I’m OK though to go with the seasons, brewing beer styles where the yeast’s preferred temperature roughly matches the weather. But now, my mind is occupied with the question of how to keep the temperature as constant as possible for fermentation: While a weather forecast of e.g. 15°C doesn’t sound too bad for lager beers, it may easily get as cold as 5° at night, giving the yeast probably a rather bad time. As I also don’t want to spend a fortune on a temperature regulated fermenter, I’d like to even out those mins & maxes passively.
My thoughts so far circle around insulation (obviously) and thermal mass. Insulating the bucket itself seems like a nobrainer. But I think it also might work to build some cheap wooden enclosure, insulate that with Styrofoam, make everything somewhat airtight and add water bottles, rocks & bricks to fill up as much space as possible. That will of course do little should the weather change drastically, but so far, I think I’d stay way below max and above min temperature in there at all times. This way, I believe I could get a decent fermentation when the average outside temperature of night & day is right for a couple of days.

Is anybody here doing something like that or has experiences worth sharing otherwise?

P.S.: Addressing the elephant in the room: For now, fermenting under pressure is no road I want to go down. Buying a new fermenter, kegs, valves, fittings, hoses, CO2 bottles and either a counter pressure bottling system or even switching to drafting entirely is just too much right now.

  • @PlasticExistenceEnglish
    2•8 months ago

    If you want no electronics in the mix at all, insulation is about your only option. Since fermentation is an exothermic process, you’ll also want to make sure you can keep it from getting too hot. Your beer will taste a lot worse from the yeast getting too hot than it will from the yeast being too cool.

    You can buy inexpensive temperature controllers, and if you can do simple wiring, it’s not too hard to add a power outlet (and an enclosure). From there a fountain pump some tubing, a cooler full of water and either a heat source or a cold source can serve as a simple way to regulate your fermentor’s temperature.

    The heat source could be something like an aquarium heater or a sous vide heater and will sit in the cooler (always on, not run to the temperature controller). You’ll tape the temperature controller’s sensor against the outer wall of your fermentor (with some insulation taped over it. A paper towel folded a few times works fine), put the fountain pump in the bucket of water with the fermentor, and run the tubing into the cooler. The output of the tubing should be run back into the bucket.

    When the fermentor gets too cool, the temperature controller will kick the fountain pump on which will take the water from the bucket and run it through the hot water in the cooler and back into the bucket. This will slowly raise the temperature inside the fermentor - and slow is what you want with yeast.

    You can replace the heater with ice or frozen water bottles if you need it to cool your beer in the warmer months. I did this for a while before moving to using a chest freezer and reptile terrarium hear mats regulated by the same temperature controllers.

    • @[email protected]OPEnglish
      3•8 months ago

      For me personally, this is less an issue of electronics (which I‘m sort of fond with), but rather of actively spending energy for a prolonged period of time, be it electric or fossile. Not only are energy prices way above US levels where I live, it also feels wasteful from an ecological standpoint. Especially so since there ways around it seem to exist. For that, I‘m willing to work with seasons and weather conditions.

      Good hint though that yeast typically is more tolerant towards cold than towards heat. I didn’t consider this, but leaving a good amount of headroom on the upper end of the spectrum sounds like a good idea. That said: It‘s been pretty rare that the climate in northern Germany made cooling an issue outside of food conservation. But that may change in the future.

      • @PlasticExistenceEnglish
        2•8 months ago

        Belgian yeast likes to get a bit hot, by the way (and the beer tastes best when fermented on the warmer side of the yeast’s preferred range). That might be a decent choice for a test batch once you get an insulated space setup.

        I can respect working with no power. I did that for a while too. Everything I mentioned is pretty power efficient though.

      • @[email protected]English
        1•8 months ago

        i use aquarium heaters but never cared about the energy consumption. my experience is that since fermentation is exothermic they rarely kick in. especially with larger fermenters it’s usually more important to prevent it from getting too hot. so maybe running larger batches might be something for you.

        • @[email protected]OPEnglish
          1•8 months ago

          Energy consumption would be pretty much determined by the outside vs preferred temp-delta, so brewing heat loving Belgian beer in the dead of winter would make those heaters run all the time I suppose, even with serious insulation. Northern Germany‘s climate doesn’t make cooling an issue for anything else than food most of the year, but I’ll keep that in mind, thanks.

          My batch size is limited by the size of my equipment, I can’t really go beyond 20, maybe 25 Liters.