Interesting. I’ve been eyeballing a boost-driver D1 for a bit, but after seeing the SC65c thermal throttling and knowing how quickly most Noctigon and Emisars step down due to heat, I might go for a DM11 since it has a bigger head, and will put more lumens “on target” with the TIR. My larger lights are all bucked/boosted and are set up for reasonable sustained output instead of being 30 second hand melters

I will contribute with a flashlight meme themed limerick:

There once was a man without foresight

Who’s wife did not approve his new flashlight

His Visa credit card

Lay out in the yard

But came four weeks later his new Hank light

Awesome, thanks!

Any chance you can measure the diameter of the driver?

60C = 140F…pretty toasty!

How hot does it get on top of ramp?

Why did you make me turn my computer monitor sideways? Oh dear God!

In all seriousness, I’ve been thinking about getting one of these, but I’m curious about how quickly it steps down due to thermal regulation. Most of the reviews I have seen show it dropping like a rock from outer space within about two or three minutes.

I squirt a little ketchup on the copper head of my Astrolux S41S every month or so; it removes the brown oxidation without much effort.

That thing has a trippy battery.

Didn’t realize you were the sandaled rider himself. Seems you and Tacgriz have the worst luck over there.

Hi cri sft40? Damnit, I just built a L21B with the “new” XP-L HI with the lower Vf.

I wish they had these available couple of years ago; I moved all my self-assembled lights to 21700 Hosts because cheap buck and boost drivers were only available in 20mm and 22mm sizes.

To quote myself from a reddit post from a few years back (I just nuked the album in imgur recently, oops!), I modded a DQG AA (not AAA) with a Nichia 219C:

“So, using the very fine tip of my soldering iron I reflowed that son of a bitch in place (yes without removing the single-piece driver/LED board or the retaining collar) using my $17 Amazon iron set to what it claims is 450C (840F) by just heating the exposed nubs on the positive and negative solder pad that stick past the LED package. The middle thermal pad came off the driver board but without any apparent ill effects.”

Some LEDs can be heated from the side in this manner, too.