My buddy has a cold plunge and this filter started cracking. After looking at it you can tell it’s definitely 3d printed (and well)

On the left you can see my first attempt. I just cut rectangular holes in CAD and it’s pretty close but not pretty. Printed in PETG on a K1 Max

Is there a way to do this in the slicer instead? I played around with 0 walls and different infill types but that didn’t work out

  • @IMALlama
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    103 hours ago

    That’s a lot of retractions. What is this filtering? Maybe you could print a more open structure and line it in mesh?

    Also, where is this part in relation to chlorine? I can’t imagine a printed part would hold up very well in high chlorine concentrations, but PETG is fairly inert…

    • FuglyDuck
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      3 minutes ago

      I might be tempted to try turning on ‘fuzzy skin’ printing above a layer height, for Prusaslicer, if you have a fairly large gap and wide skin thickness it can create an almost-open-weave to it. I used that for some grow baskets for aeroponic racks as well as a lamp shade. The trick there is to print in spiral mode as well.

      but I think given the bottom profile, it would have to be done in separate parts- a cylinder for the actual filter, and a cap on either end. ( you can also turn on a skirt for adhesion, which is also useful as a flange for securing it into a cap. basically, there’s a recess that it fits in, then a threaded ring screws into that recess.)

      edit: here’s a screen grab of a quick mock up in prusa… using a calibration cube (20x20x50mm) using a layer height change to turn off perimeters, infill and turn on fuzzy skin with a point-distance of .6 and a tickness of 1mm. (default .4mm nozzle. yes, that makes a difference on the skin.) It creates a realtively ‘open’ structure.

    • @[email protected]
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      117 minutes ago

      I like this suggestion. 3d printing can help with the form factor but creating a mesh filter is a solved problem - why struggle to reproduce that part of it?

  • @[email protected]
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    2 hours ago

    Tangent: That sounds like a bad idea for food safety. And I’m referring to both the original and the recreation. If it were for myself, I would buy something made of metal. edit: Thought it was a coffee thing, disregard.

    On topic: Could you clean up the holes with a hot needle and some patience? PETG tends to be very stringy, which is probably the reason the holes are not well defined. Maybe try tuning your printer to minimise stringing?

  • U van probably get some improvements by dialing in the printer settings. Otherwise just change the geometry would probably be more effective for less effort. I would reccomment circular holes with the same area as the existing filter would help reduce the issues ur seeing with overhangs. And maybe turn the cooling fan up a touch to help reduce stringing but it probs wont be too effective considering the material.