This is mostly useless, except to justify buying a bigger TV. However, I did learn:

  • For most popular high end models, the 65 inch models are cheapest / sq inch (e.g Sony A95L, Samsung S90D, LG G4). For most others, it’s the 75 inch models.
  • TCL S551F 55" scores the lowest ($0.17/sq inch)
  • The lowest scoring OLED is the Samsung S85D ($0.55/sq inch)
  • For 100 inches, Hisense QD7 is the cheapest ($0.37/sq inch). For 85 inches, it’s the TCL S551F ($0.22/sq inch)

Graphs by brand

Prices taken from Amazon, rest of the data from https://comparetvprices.com. Models are from 2022-now.

    • @acosmichippo
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      95 days ago

      does anyone use their native smart TV UI anyway?

      • @Zorque
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        225 days ago

        Outside sarcastic internet forums? Probably, yeah.

      • @[email protected]
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        115 days ago

        LG and Samsung have been caught uploading screenshots of your HDMI inputs too, so it’s not like it’s any better

        • @acosmichippo
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          5 days ago

          which you can opt out from and/or just not put your TV on a network.

      • @[email protected]
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        45 days ago

        Most people do.

        Mine’s just old enough to not have ads but new enough to have apps for plex and other services I use. Next one is going to be disconnected and have some flashable Android box connected to it. Or even just Apple TV as that’s still better than most native UIs.

      • @[email protected]
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        15 days ago

        I don’t, I’m not sure if I’m in the minority. I just plug in my laptop or cast my phone (jellyfin or any other misc streaming service).

  • Ghostalmedia
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    175 days ago

    I want a 3 axis chart of price, size, and number of ads in the UI.

    • @[email protected]
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      35 days ago

      I doubt this will hold up now that they’re owned by Walmart, but I’ve gotten exactly zero ads on Vizio panels since I first bought one in 2017. I have two at the moment and they’re both effectively dumb displays with no network access.

  • @bus_factor
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    75 days ago

    There’s not much point in optimizing completely for price per inch, but when I bought my TV in 2013 I plotted this, and discovered a pretty sharp hockey stick in the graph at 70" and above. So I got a 65" TV. If my graph had looked pretty straight like yours I’d probably just get the biggest that is practical for the space.

    • @[email protected]
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      5 days ago

      My SO wants a bigger screen, and I was thinking of a 65", but maybe I’ll consider a 75" instead since it seems like a sweet spot for value.

      I’ve also debated getting a projector. It’s in a basement, so I can get a blackout curtain for daytime use.

    • @mahinOP
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      25 days ago

      Same thing for 100 inch models now. Maybe it’ll flatten out in a few years.

    • @[email protected]
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      5 days ago

      yeah you’d have to get a rear projection DLP to get a bargain at that screen size back then. around 2010 i picked up a 73" DLP for less than a grand at costco, but i used some lucky discounts, or it would’ve been 1100 or so on sale.

      most people don’t like those bulky TVs though, even back then. or even have room for them.

    • @LovableSidekick
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      15 days ago

      I followed a roughly similar process but the flow was more like, “Here’s a 65-inch TV on sale, let’s bump up our 48.”

  • Jesus
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    125 days ago

    Now filter by display technology.

    • @devfuuu
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      35 days ago

      And the type of HDR they support. I got lucky finding a philips a couple years ago that just supports all types so I don’t have to worry about it.

      • @bus_factor
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        45 days ago

        Mine supports none, so I also don’t have to worry about it.

    • Twinklebreeze
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      75 days ago

      How many square inches does that get me?

      • @Hule
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        15 days ago

        You bastard, You made me try calculating it!

  • @[email protected]
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    4 days ago

    Here, it’s not demand vs. suply. It’s demand only, that drives the prices.

    Wait, isn’t that a sign for collusion?

  • @[email protected]
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    65 days ago

    At least in the case of the Hisense TV I got for my grandparents, a “glitch” with accessibility controls (makes directional inputs unresponsive or multi-press at times) just so happens to make remapping the sponsored remote buttons impossible, as well as breaking the most common method of changing the system launcher, so screen size alone isn’t everything.

    Although Hisense still tries to reinstall sponsored apps after I delete them, using Launcher Manager to set a custom launcher that allows for the hiding of unwanted applications and channels made it much more usable for my grandparents.

    Unfortunately I wasn’t able to redirect YouTube voice input commands to SmartTube Next, so if I ever replace it, that’ll be a factor in my decision too.