Everyone’s laughing at the fire hazard, but I would unironically buy this if it was a power strip and not a surge protector because I’m already basically doing this with four separate power strips into a single uninterruptible power supply for all of my retro video game consoles, modem, router, roku, and my television. The trick is basically nothing is ever on at any given time so right now the current output is only 36 watts.
You labeled like, 3 things. I’m gonna be sick.
Hah! It’s a rats nest that I basically dumped back there the last time I moved and the labels are from a long time ago before I had most of the stuff. It’s not like you get a new retro console every day so I’m almost never back there. That’s kind of the whole point. I plug everything in one time and then I don’t touch it until I move.
You’re killing me, Jessica
I have the 22 port, actual, real version of this. It’s leveled up my cable organization game.
Unfortunately these high capacity power strips always have surge protector functionality in them, and it’s a very bad idea to daisy-chain surge protectors because they can interrupt each other trying to stop the current and all of your stuff will get fried.
Power strips are fine as long as you aren’t exceeding the maximum load, but they never come with as many plugs so that’s how I ended up with four different power strips and some 1 foot extension cords for all those damn wall warts.
All of that is going into the handful of battery backup plugs on the uninterruptible power supply so if I’m ever playing a retro game and the power goes out, I don’t lose my progress! You know how evil games used to be; half the time you can’t even save the damn game lol
Sega Genesis owners: “At last…”
The original artist who made this is NanoRaptor, btw. You can find them on Mastodon.
Well, devices like that are sold by a Russian design studio since like 2005:
https://www.artlebedev.ru/rozetkus/
Can I get the male/male suicide cable and plug it into itself?
surely nothing can go wrong
A Christmas Story intensifies
Is this going to get bigger every time it’s reposted?
Men only want one thing…
and it’s dangerous as fuck.
That last part just saying Fire is the funniest part
That looks just about enough for an average power user setup
Finally
Customers who bought this item also bought:
dorm, gaming room, fire.
Hmmmmmm. One those is more likely to happen then the rest.
Dorm > gaming room > fire
Surprisingly appropriate use of “then”
Grammatical whiplash.
Hmmmmm, did you have a stroke whilst typing that?
We call it the firestarter 3000
I mean, I’m sure the device itself is built like shit and a fire hazard that way but just plugging too much stuff in will (ideally) throw a breaker before it starts a fire. It’s what the breakers are there for, after all. Before anybody says anything about it, yes an individual outlet can take the whole load of the circuit, precisely because of silly shit like this.
Well, kind of. Most normal outlets in the US are 15a on 20a circuits. But the circuit’s running load is only supposed to be 75% of the breaker’s rating. So in practice, yeah basically you can pull 15a at 120V through a single outlet if you need to.
18 amps effectively, at least for a period of time. Don’t do that, but yeah they are overbuilt a little.
I’ve always read that you can do 100% of the capacity as “surge” (I haven’t read a definition, but I think it’s no more than 3-5 seconds) and 80% the rest of the time.
So your clothes dryer can start the heating element and turn on the motor at the same time and use the whole 30 amp outlet it’s plugged into if it wants to because the power will go down once the drum is up to speed. From there, the power might go down further once it’s up to temperature. If you’re charging your car on that same outlet, though, it needs to be limited to 24 amps because it’ll be using that the whole time.
It gets weird, though, with 15/20 amp, though. Technically, if it’s a 15amp outlet, you should only use 12 amps continuously. However, a lot of the time everything except the outlet is specced for 20amps. In that situation, you should still follow the same rules, but it’s more forgiving.
What breakers are there to protect is the cable in your wall.
The cable should be rated to run at 100% load continuously (with some safety factor for running a little more); depending on the breaker rating and curve (usually C curve in New Zealand for domestic).
So a C20 breaker can supply 120A for 1s before protecting the circuit; this allows for starting motors.
Now a breaker is different from an RCD which measures the difference between the phase and neutral lines. If the difference is too high the circuit trips. This is to protect the fleshy thing holding the knife in the toaster.
In America, they always say that continuous loads should run at 80%. That’s why circuit breakers are specced at 15/20/30/40/50/60 amp but the EVSE is specced at 12/16/24/32/40/48 amp.
It actually looks like a skyscraper with sad faces looking out of the window :(
Saved me money in flints and steel… did not save me money in housing… 3 stars
