Finally, a surge
generatorprotector worthy of my x-mas tree and multimedia setup.😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮
The Rosetta Stone anno 2024.
Everyone’s laughing at the fire hazard, but I would unironically buy this if it was a power strip and not a surge protector because I’m already basically doing this with four separate power strips into a single uninterruptible power supply for all of my retro video game consoles, modem, router, roku, and my television. The trick is basically nothing is ever on at any given time so right now the current output is only 36 watts.
What in the living hell is this?
Okay, I’m actually onboard with those things. It’s usually a cable with a single wall plug on one end and four C13 plugs at the other. So you could plug in two monitors, a desktop PC and a printer, say, with just one socket. They’re a lot neater than having a whole power strip and four cables. I’ve also seen ones that split one C14 into four C13s but I’m not as sure how I feel about those.
You labeled like, 3 things. I’m gonna be sick.
The only label I can see just says “Scart” (oh, and wifi I guess)
Hah! It’s a rats nest that I basically dumped back there the last time I moved and the labels are from a long time ago before I had most of the stuff. It’s not like you get a new retro console every day so I’m almost never back there. That’s kind of the whole point. I plug everything in one time and then I don’t touch it until I move.
You’re killing me, Jessica
I have the 22 port, actual, real version of this. It’s leveled up my cable organization game.
Unfortunately these high capacity power strips always have surge protector functionality in them, and it’s a very bad idea to daisy-chain surge protectors because they can interrupt each other trying to stop the current and all of your stuff will get fried.
Power strips are fine as long as you aren’t exceeding the maximum load, but they never come with as many plugs so that’s how I ended up with four different power strips and some 1 foot extension cords for all those damn wall warts.
All of that is going into the handful of battery backup plugs on the uninterruptible power supply so if I’m ever playing a retro game and the power goes out, I don’t lose my progress! You know how evil games used to be; half the time you can’t even save the damn game lol
I haven’t done an analysis of my power strip / surge protector layout, but my gaming system is just plugged into a UPS with six ports.
The 22 port one is for my server closet. I’d love to show you, but for some reason my client won’t allow me to upload photos.
Sega Genesis owners: “At last…”
Behold, my final form:
Thank the gods-- experts!! Is this okay please? It’s a 12 socket, 2USB, Surge Protector with Joule Rating: 3900
.Currently plugged in: Fibre hub and router; small TV; occasionally laptop.
It should specify its max wattage somewhere. But since it’s 3900 joules which is quite a lot for a surge protector iirc, I assume it’s decent quality, so should handle at least ~1800W which should be more than enough for the stuff you plugged into it
Probably supports more power than the shown strip.
Customers who bought this item also bought:
That last part just saying Fire is the funniest part
This is how you plug in a harpejji
dorm, gaming room, fire.
Hmmmmmm. One those is more likely to happen then the rest.
Surprisingly appropriate use of “then”
Grammatical whiplash.
Dorm > gaming room > fire
Hmmmmm, did you have a stroke whilst typing that?
Is this going to get bigger every time it’s reposted?
We call it the firestarter 3000
I mean, I’m sure the device itself is built like shit and a fire hazard that way but just plugging too much stuff in will (ideally) throw a breaker before it starts a fire. It’s what the breakers are there for, after all. Before anybody says anything about it, yes an individual outlet can take the whole load of the circuit, precisely because of silly shit like this.
Well, kind of. Most normal outlets in the US are 15a on 20a circuits. But the circuit’s running load is only supposed to be 75% of the breaker’s rating. So in practice, yeah basically you can pull 15a at 120V through a single outlet if you need to.
18 amps effectively, at least for a period of time. Don’t do that, but yeah they are overbuilt a little.
I’ve always read that you can do 100% of the capacity as “surge” (I haven’t read a definition, but I think it’s no more than 3-5 seconds) and 80% the rest of the time.
So your clothes dryer can start the heating element and turn on the motor at the same time and use the whole 30 amp outlet it’s plugged into if it wants to because the power will go down once the drum is up to speed. From there, the power might go down further once it’s up to temperature. If you’re charging your car on that same outlet, though, it needs to be limited to 24 amps because it’ll be using that the whole time.
It gets weird, though, with 15/20 amp, though. Technically, if it’s a 15amp outlet, you should only use 12 amps continuously. However, a lot of the time everything except the outlet is specced for 20amps. In that situation, you should still follow the same rules, but it’s more forgiving.
What breakers are there to protect is the cable in your wall.
The cable should be rated to run at 100% load continuously (with some safety factor for running a little more); depending on the breaker rating and curve (usually C curve in New Zealand for domestic).
So a C20 breaker can supply 120A for 1s before protecting the circuit; this allows for starting motors.
Now a breaker is different from an RCD which measures the difference between the phase and neutral lines. If the difference is too high the circuit trips. This is to protect the fleshy thing holding the knife in the toaster.
In America, they always say that continuous loads should run at 80%. That’s why circuit breakers are specced at 15/20/30/40/50/60 amp but the EVSE is specced at 12/16/24/32/40/48 amp.
Aye. US NEC says 80% is safe carrying capacity. There is an expectation there will be surges or dirty power that might take it a little
That is probably good practice.
But your cable SHOULD be rated to run at 100% continuously, if it is not, then the rating is wrong.
It actually looks like a skyscraper with sad faces looking out of the window :(
Saved me money in flints and steel… did not save me money in housing… 3 stars
Can I get the male/male suicide cable and plug it into itself?
The original artist who made this is NanoRaptor, btw. You can find them on Mastodon.
Well, devices like that are sold by a Russian design studio since like 2005:
https://www.artlebedev.ru/rozetkus/
Those big plugs for everything take so much room.
