• ÚwÙ-PasswortOP
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      24 hours ago

      The couole year old Hydroplanters with dirt, dont care. Still hold water and look good. Are about 3-5 years old.

  • @finitebanjo
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    1011 hours ago

    Yeah, my major qualm about 3D printing is that all of the plastics I would like to use are higher heat than any entry level printers.

    • @annette_runner
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      15 hours ago

      Maybe you can get into aluminum extrusion

    • @spitfire
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      16 hours ago

      PETG is pretty easy to print and has a higher temp resistance than PLA

    • @roofuskit
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      1011 hours ago

      PETG works fine in the dishwasher and works on any standard printer.

      • @[email protected]
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        610 hours ago

        Depends on your dishwasher. Even in top rack after a couple of washes PETG it warped for me on standard wash. If you run a dry cycle or sterilization cycle on your dishwasher forget it. If its anything precise (I printed a lid with threads) a single standard wash is enough to ruin precision with subtle warping. Also the dishwasher can introduce moisture into gaps created by printing that can grow mold or bacteria. I think we would all love better options for dishwashable printed materials, but I would argue PETG is not really it.

      • @finitebanjo
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        9 hours ago

        PETG is a good argument against my statement, but it still prints at a temperature between 220 and 260 C. PLA prints at 180 to 220 C.

        PETG is a higher temperature plastic than PLA, and a lot of cheap (below $200) printers don’t work well with it.

        • The Pantser
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          39 hours ago

          Might wanna switch that F to a C.

        • @roofuskit
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          611 hours ago

          Old Ender 3s and the like work just fine with PETG. Not sure where you got the impression they don’t.

          There’s nothing special about printing PETG that requires a big change over PLA. Printers have been hitting those temps since the rep rap days.

          • @finitebanjo
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            011 hours ago

            Personal experiences with a cheap sovol that turned itself off when the temperatures went up during a long print.

            • The Pantser
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              39 hours ago

              Sounds like a thermal runaway where a temperature changed too quickly and the code interpreted that as a fire or risk of fire and shut down. A lot of times that can be helped with a silicone sock and a PID tuning. Another thing is the ceramic heater core is going bad and it can’t keep a stable temp above a point. Heater cores are cheap and easy to change. The heater core is considered a consumable part and usually comes in multiple packs.

            • @papalonian
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              5 hours ago

              It sounds like it may have been reaching a thermal shutoff point and killing itself. Maybe the temp you were aiming for was close to the limit, and slight variations caused it to go over and “save” itself.

              The only thing that might keep a printer that prints PLA well from printing PETG well is if it’s an old printer without a heated bed. Save for that (and potentially faulty hardware or miscalibrated settings), there’s not really anything that “can’t” print PETG.

              I actually have some PLA+ rolls that print at higher speeds temps than my PETG rolls 🤷🏾‍♂️

              • @finitebanjo
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                10 hours ago

                I’m sorry but that’s incorrect. All of that. Your guesses were wrong. Except it is absolutely a sensor telling the machine to turn off, that part is right.

                • @papalonian
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                  9 hours ago

                  You seem incredibly confident in your diagnosis for someone who can’t get a very common filament to work on printers that have been using it for years. Care to elaborate more than, “you’re completely wrong, except for where you’re right”? What was causing the problem?

            • @JiveTurkey
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              111 hours ago

              Ive definitely gone through periods of hating petg just because it’s sticky and in my experience any amount of over extrusion results in it building up on the nozzle. It sounds like something may have been wrong with your printer. Shutting down from the hotend being too hot is odd unless that printer specifically has a low max temp or the hotend was doing something to trigger a shutdown. I have 2 voron printers now but I printed all of the parts for the first one out of petg on an ender 3 V2 without issue.

              • @finitebanjo
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                10 hours ago

                No it printed PLA just fine. It shut itself off while printing PETG, before or after successful PLA prints, because even if I manually set the temperature it does not handle heat.

                I don’t care about your printer, I didn’t ask, I’m sharing my experiences. You can’t explain things in a way that invalidates my experiences.

                • @JiveTurkey
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                  9 hours ago

                  I’m not trying to invalidate anything of your experiences . I mentioned my printers as an example of printing a ton of petg on a cheap printer. I have no experience with your printer specifically, I was just trying to say that it is possible to print petg on a cheap printer but undoubtedly there are similar stories as yours on the same printer I had success with.

                  I also didn’t mean that your printer was broken or couldn’t print anything, but if the petg temp was right on the edge of the max set in firmware and the hot end drifts too much, it’s going to trigger a shutdown. The drift in temp could be bad PID tuning or even a lose connection. If that were the case you would be able to print PLA just fine because the drift wouldn’t exceed the max temp and trigger a shutdown.

        • @dekomote
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          411 hours ago

          Pretty much all printers print PETG. It’s typically around 220-240, I have never gone above 245 and that on very high speeds.

          • @finitebanjo
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            011 hours ago

            Then I guess I’m the only person to ever use a printer that handled heat very poorly.

    • @[email protected]
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      28 hours ago

      Centauri Carbon might be worth a look into then - it can print fairly high temperature filaments.