Yeah, the early 3D printed guns were garbage, but modern ones are much more durable. Changes in design have allowed for the use of off-the-shelf parts for the most important moving pieces, which means you have the durability of those off-the-shelf parts instead. The 3D print is basically just holding the machined parts together.
Yeah 3d printed gun is such a misnomer for most of the “ghost guns”, the gun he had was just the printed frame. That section of the 3d printing community isn’t really my scene but that seems to be what I’ve seen for all the printed guns, lower/frame with barrel and trigger assembly being metal pieces. I think years ago I saw a modern reinterpreting of the WW2 Liberator that was done in all plastic but that’s obviously designed to shoot only once.
I’m sure you know more about the scene than I do and can correct or verify my knowledge.
The ones I have use 3d printed frames, the fire control group and barrels are metal with 3d printed pieces for making the rifling.
All the parts that take repeated heavy abuse are reinforced with extra thickness or different infil, but by weight I’d say it’s about 50/50 metal/plastic.
The 3d printed lowers are quite basic, and since they aren’t designed to take a ton of stress anyway, it’s not really hard to find a decent design.
All my parts are printed in pla+, and I do minimal work afterwards to make things perfect, only what is necessary for the mechanical parts to cycle properly.
I actually haven’t been keeping up the last few years, I wouldn’t be surprised if there are even better methods than the ones I’ve used.
Most 3d printed guns are constructed very similarly to “real” commercially available (in burgerland) guns that use a polymer construction. The plastic is taking very little of the force, they use metal inserts and rails that the mechanical parts connect to. This distributes the load a lot. I haven’t printed any yet, mostly because you basically need to buy a whole gun to build one, but they aren’t magic or anything and you could do the same thing with woodworking tools by hand if you had a lot of patience.
The most reliable one I have uses an AR style fire control group, and large metal pieces for the bolt, and pre-hardened hydraulic tubing for the barrel.
There’s plenty of metal in it, all held together via 3d printed parts and frame
The only things I needed to buy that I would consider “from a firearm” or “from a gun store” would be the fire control group. Everything else was bought from McMaster Carr or local hardware stores.
Spot on with the woodworking. I’ve made a couple stocks for my grandfather’s old broken long rifles. It’s just more time consuming. (also my 3d printer isn’t that long)
Important to note: 3D PRINTED FIREARMS DO NOT BREAK WITH A FEW USES
Firsthand knowledge.
200-250 rounds and still going strong, inspected before and after firing every time
No damage so far.
Beyond that point, I agree with everything posted.
Gun nut
Yeah, the early 3D printed guns were garbage, but modern ones are much more durable. Changes in design have allowed for the use of off-the-shelf parts for the most important moving pieces, which means you have the durability of those off-the-shelf parts instead. The 3D print is basically just holding the machined parts together.
Yeah 3d printed gun is such a misnomer for most of the “ghost guns”, the gun he had was just the printed frame. That section of the 3d printing community isn’t really my scene but that seems to be what I’ve seen for all the printed guns, lower/frame with barrel and trigger assembly being metal pieces. I think years ago I saw a modern reinterpreting of the WW2 Liberator that was done in all plastic but that’s obviously designed to shoot only once.
I’m sure you know more about the scene than I do and can correct or verify my knowledge.
The ones I have use 3d printed frames, the fire control group and barrels are metal with 3d printed pieces for making the rifling.
All the parts that take repeated heavy abuse are reinforced with extra thickness or different infil, but by weight I’d say it’s about 50/50 metal/plastic.
The 3d printed lowers are quite basic, and since they aren’t designed to take a ton of stress anyway, it’s not really hard to find a decent design.
All my parts are printed in pla+, and I do minimal work afterwards to make things perfect, only what is necessary for the mechanical parts to cycle properly.
I actually haven’t been keeping up the last few years, I wouldn’t be surprised if there are even better methods than the ones I’ve used.
That’s awesome and also kind of scary.
I think that highly depends on your knowledge about 3D printing an what materials you use.
Most 3d printed guns are constructed very similarly to “real” commercially available (in burgerland) guns that use a polymer construction. The plastic is taking very little of the force, they use metal inserts and rails that the mechanical parts connect to. This distributes the load a lot. I haven’t printed any yet, mostly because you basically need to buy a whole gun to build one, but they aren’t magic or anything and you could do the same thing with woodworking tools by hand if you had a lot of patience.
The most reliable one I have uses an AR style fire control group, and large metal pieces for the bolt, and pre-hardened hydraulic tubing for the barrel.
There’s plenty of metal in it, all held together via 3d printed parts and frame
The only things I needed to buy that I would consider “from a firearm” or “from a gun store” would be the fire control group. Everything else was bought from McMaster Carr or local hardware stores.
Spot on with the woodworking. I’ve made a couple stocks for my grandfather’s old broken long rifles. It’s just more time consuming. (also my 3d printer isn’t that long)
Based O’Brien would engineer a thousand-round 3D printed gun while the federation’s ATF just weeps in a corner